Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ghey. Needs more 1JZ foo!

See you Sundy big guy. :wub:

How about an sr20 cortina ;)

But yes definitely keen for Sunday, I should fix this exhaust leak but don't want up fark anything up before then.

i fitted my front camber arms yesterday and wound a bit of neg into it (moreso for looks lol)

n3pgHHJ.jpg

Also had it out for qr happy laps today, and it went well for being what is essentially a stock motor. My battery clamp broke so I couldn't corner to hard also cooked my pissy Natro brakes and my rears tires are now catus :thumbsup:

KjdX8Qh.jpg

*note shit house front fitment as my 30mm bolt ons rub to much, so I took them off and will purchase a set of 20mm

The car looked like it went well man! Whats next on the menu?

Yer I was really happy with it, went really well for a stock motor. Next on menu in no particular order:

New tires

New brake pads

New front wheel studs and spacers

TO FIX THIS BLOODY GEARBOX!

Yer I was really happy with it, went really well for a stock motor. Next on menu in no particular order:

New tires

New brake pads

New front wheel studs and spacers

TO FIX THIS BLOODY GEARBOX!

stoopid question.... your gbox prob and tacho probs.... they couldnt be related could they? speed sensor issues etc?

just a thought honky!

His speed and tacho probs are just that the signal going to the gauges is wrong.

The correct signal is getting to the ECU which is doing shifts. The ECU has identified a fault with Soln A in the box, and hence locked it out.

His speed and tacho probs are just that the signal going to the gauges is wrong.

The correct signal is getting to the ECU which is doing shifts. The ECU has identified a fault with Soln A in the box, and hence locked it out.

didnt know it was confirmed as solenoidssss. thought he had checked em.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...