Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is a 1997 Holden Barina that I have had some fun with

Instead of the boring old bubble car, I decided to make something different.
some mods I have made are-
- Front yellow fog lights
- "Custom" front Opel Badge, with most of the Holden insignia removed
- A rear Opel badge from the 1920-30's hanging as 'drift candy'
- Roof racks with ski racks and skis
- "Blast pipe" style exhaust tip
- It has a front plastic lip that has a few nice touches to it (fatlace decal, cable ties that do nothing and a opel lapel badge tied on)
- The front number plate is intentionally tilted for more madness
- Aftermarket front speakers (Sony from memory)
- It has windscreen wiper visors
- A CAMS sticker
- I also have a half finished duckbill rear spoiler for the buyer

NB: The car currently has watanabe style rims on it but these are NOT included with sale, instead you will be getting 4 steelies with basically new tread.

This car has been my daily for the last 6 months or so whilst I got my other car back on the road, so it is time to sell. Exterior is average/good condition with some panel damage on the passenger side, Interior is great condition and mechanically perfect. It has very low k's, is ever reliable- I have never had any issues at all with the car and I am going to miss the economy of this car (40L will get you over 600k's). It also has twin front airbags and a A/C switch, but it does not seem to blow any colder, so it may need regassing or the A/C doesnt exist, I don't know.

$1500 ono

Price does not include registration, but if you get your own RWC, I will include current rego (until May) at no cost. For RWC I think it may need rear brakes (a little squeaky) and the front lip is probably a little too low.

Not looking for swaps unless it is one of the following-
NA MX5
240Z/260Z 2 seater
Z10 Soarer
HR31 Skyline
AW11 MR2

MSGs only please, no calls- 04 double2 double9 7 double2 3

th_2013-03-21175948_zps3259333a.jpg
th_2013-03-21175955_zps16e0a255.jpg
th_2013-03-21180026_zps59c40f38.jpg
th_2013-03-21180033_zpsde67fe3f.jpg
th_2013-03-21180108_zpsa0d36504.jpg
th_2013-03-21180118_zpsbc646be9.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Give the fluid a really good flush, then go do the same track again. Report back too please
    • I think most of the benefit there is really from the battery as well, having 1 kWh or so means you don't need the engine running at idle to run the AC, when the battery is depleted you can run much higher idle to charge the battery at a lower bsfc point and then shut it back down, you can regen on braking to recover some of that power too. I can't imagine the benefit from only running the compressor as much as needed is huge if you're mostly only running the AC on hot sunny days where it really needs to work hard to keep interior cabin temp under ambient.
    • Yeah, unless you're doing it by the book, your data is probably not useful. Boiling point drops rapidly with only just a little water in it.
    • How hard are you tracking it? I have 378 in front and 355 in the back with decent pads and my brakes were spongy after a decent session with lots of braking. It was a short track though but got up to around 190-200 max. be keen to hear. Mind you, I havent flushed my fluid so thats probably part of reason.
×
×
  • Create New...