Jump to content
SAU Community

Driving Around With A Leaking Exhaust Manifold Cause Any Damage Apart From Sounding Horrible


Recommended Posts

Gday,

I have a leaking manifold due to one of the holes were the studs screw in being threaded and not having a stud in there. It never was a problem for about 9 months but now i believe it has warped the manifold from the heat unfortunately and in turn completely ruined the gasket for the last cylinder. At first it was just a tick tick tick when cold now everytime i downshift or let off the throttle you can hear loud backfires from the motor escaping the manifold and a bit of a sucking noise under boost. I know this isnt ideal to drive with due to it sounding like a tractor but the manifold gasket and studs have been purchased and im just waiting to buy a new front pipe and decat to do all my exhaust gear at once.

So as the topic states does driving around like this cause any problems e.g bad for valves. I know it takes longer for turbo to spool up, cant hold boost for as long, sounds terrible etc but more worried about the motor as this is my daily driver. I would of thought it would ruin economy but it has probably been better as i have been rarely hitting boost. Its a rb25det btw with a stock turbo and internals. Within a week or two it will be fixed but i rely alot on my car and time is always short. ANy input will be greatly appreciated

  • 2 weeks later...

Without having heard it myself, I would be on the cautious side and say nurse it as much as possible. Aside from the carbon monoxide rolling into your cabin, the leaky manifold increases bay heat much quicker, and can eventually cause some valve damage. Best avoided if possible. Also, rarely hitting boost doesn't necessarily equate to better economy, since, if it's struggling to hit the higher RPM range, it offsets the lack of air with a bit more fuel. Just a thought.

rarely hitting boost will generally mean better economy, but not in the case of a leaking exhaust. in normal cases, using lighter amounts of throttle means less boost, which means better economy for 2 reasons. 1: less air going into the system, so less fuel is required, and 2: lower throttle percentages means the ecu is reading in lower load cells, so it will generally stay in closed loop (using o2 sensor feedback) and be running on leaner AFRs.

but in the case of an exhaust leak, you will have less efficient exhaust flow, and you will be using more throttle (so higher load values) to go anywhere, so while the boost levels may be lower, you would be using more fuel than if you were to have no leaks and be driving around at the same boost levels (which would mean less throttle than you currently are).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...