-Sa- R32 Full Rollcage Bolt In
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R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work. -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays -
careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again. Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ? -
OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
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I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll go, thanks for the input!
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