Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, but I am often in this position myself seeing I chew through rear callipers myself for some odd reason.

I'd hit ebay (USA) and search for remanufactured 280zx series 2 callipers:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOCOM-PSC-Rebuilt-Unloaded-Brake-Caliper-REAR-LEFT-22-00516L-Nissan-280ZX-/251137842443?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a78fb5d0b&_uhb=1#ht_1468wt_1164

They should suit your needs.

i fitted hr31 Aarms to mine converts to inner drum handbrake and allows for easy fitment of r32 onward twin piston calipers. ventilated rotors standard.

if your interested ive got a couple pair of these arms spare complete with brakes and 4bolt shaft type hubs

jon.

Awesome. Thanks very much Drew. I didn't know that the 280zx series 2 calipers are the same. They certainly look the same. Are the piston diameters the same?

The needle rollers on the hand brake adjusting cam have disintegrated on mine.What have you been chewing through on yours?

Jeff

I have a box of rear callipers all in different states of disrepair and found there are a couple of different piston diameter sizes (to my surprise). For the life of me I don't know which calliper has come from which model car. Oddly they all seem to take the same shape brake pad, but according to the bendix website there are some subtle differences: 280zx brake pads have a small metal tab, whereas the R30 stuff is the same shape with no tab. What the tab does (if anything) is beyond me - as the pad with the tab seems to fit the big/small piston callipers anyway.


In short - it seems you can entirely mix and match calliper parts and pads except for the pistons/wheel cylinder kits.


I have no idea what's going on with my calliper's death with. After some time with them on the car there is a scraping sound, and when I grab hold of the calliper there is play in it. You can actually rattle the thing back and forth even though it's firmly bolted to the diff carrier - so maybe I am bending/damaging the two pistons the callipers slides back and forth on. I've replaced discs and pads (and cylinder kits) but still seem to eat the callipers at an unholy rate.

Hi Drew,

I checked out those calipers on ebay. They are the same piston dia as the DR30 at 42mm but they say that the centre to centre dimension of two sliding pins on the ones they have for the 280zx are approx 125mm. The ones off the Dr30 measure 110mm. What do the ones you have measure?

Cheers

Jeff

The busted calliper that I just pulled off the car measures 110mm - they probably came off an r30 hatch.

The set that I just chucked on the car are also stuffed, Ill measure when I remove them, but they are probably also 110mm.

Hey. I'm after some DR30 rear calipers too. Need them to finish my project! It's the last thing on the list. If anyone has a pair please get in touch. Definitely need DR30, not 300ZX/Z31, not R30, not 280ZX...


Cheers, Benny.

04 011 692 65

Thanks for all your answers but I ended up reconditioning my old calipers. I got the original pistons sleeved and got 280zx repair kits which fitted fine. The real problem are the needle roller bearings for the handbrake mechanism. I removed the stuffed needle rollers and made up bronze bushes to replace them. It all seems to work fine.

let us know how the bush goes. I was thinking of going down the same path. not sure over time it might start binding?

other option was i have some z31 rear brakes and was thinking of machining the back out of one and then pressing the bearing out to reuse.

Hey guys. Still looking. Looks like Tokico 5H are the ones I'm after.

I've found one but I can't find another. I'll pay good dollars to find another so it'll be worthwhile...

20130504_121820.jpg

20130504_121811.jpg

The one on the left with the flat bottom is the one I'm after.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...