Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any reccomendations as to where to get a tailshaft done in Sydney?

The carbon shaft in my Z32 has failed (again). It seems that heat soak gets to it causing the bond between the yoke and the shaft to slip.

Anyway, planning to get a chrome molly one made up.

Are Sydney Driveline (http://www.sydneydriveline.com/) the guys to see? Any other suggestions? I just want to know that it will be straight and balanced and that they shop is using quality U joints...

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422368-custom-tailshaft-in-sydney/
Share on other sites

I used these guys for the race car: http://metropolitandriveshafts.com.au/

Excellent driveshaft, no issues with years of use, expensive.

Who supplied the carbon one that failed? Pretty poor to have the bonding fail (twice)

You'll find most driveshaft places (metro) included use CDS tube for their shafts. Nothing wrong with it at all just it's mild steel and far cheaper to the general consumer.

I normally buy 4130 tube from race tech steel, joints from hardy spicer and assemble the shaft myself. Then drop it off at Harry's to be balanced. It's the only way to know exactly what material went into the shaft.

I used these guys for the race car: http://metropolitandriveshafts.com.au/

Excellent driveshaft, no issues with years of use, expensive.

Who supplied the carbon one that failed? Pretty poor to have the bonding fail (twice)

Thanks mate will check it out.

Carbon shaft was from Precision Shaft Technologies in the USA. Owner Mark has been very good about the whole thing, they fixed it the first time under warranty and have offered to do it again. Really though I think it is just a poor choice of tailshaft for a Z32. Heat is the enemy of the carbon shaft and let's face it Zeds make plenty... Especially pushing big HP through big dump pipes/exhaust/etc. Both times the failure has been under near identical circumstances ie driving all day in high ambient temps.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Just a quick update for anyone interested. I ended up getting Metropolitan Driveshaft Services http://metropolitandriveshafts.com.au/ to make the shaft.

Went with a 3.5" chrome moly tube with 1350 Hardie Spicer "lubed for life" (I was happy to grease them but these unis have thicker bars) unis.

Came to a total of $1331 which was a fair bit more than I was expecting (had been told by the 2IC that it would be about $800 and they'd call with a quote when the manager was back in the shop, spoke to the manager the following week about what specs I was after and he said they'd source the materials and call back with a quote, next thing it was finished...) BUT all told it does look like being a top quality shaft.

In terms of quality and turnaround I'd be happy to recommend them but would suggest "firmly" requesting a quote prior to assembly to avoid any surprises...

Edited by Rob260

For general info for those doing R33 gearbox upgrades, I had Metropolitan Driveshafts do the tail shaft conversion for my HR31 - cut off the yokes from the 31 and 33 tailshafts and weld the 33 yoke onto the 31 shaft. Good job and only cost $165. They know their business.

  • 10 months later...

Depends how you spec it up man. When you've broken two 'shafts you tend to go overkill, and that's what cost me big bucks.

Metro did an awesome job http://metropolitandriveshafts.com.au/ -not the cheapest but they were recommended by someone in the industry whom I think very highly of.

This is another shop that I looked at http://www.sydneydriveline.com/index.html -they were a little cheaper (going by over the phone quote) but I didn't know anyone with first hand experience...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...