Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright I have an issue with my 300gt. 90% of the time when I start it after the engines already warm it will start to idle but will drop rapidly to the point where the car almost shuts off (sometimes it will actually shut off). During this the engine light or 'check at' light will come on for the duration up until the cars idling normally again. If the headlights are on at the time they'll fade down aswell like the car is losing too much power.

I have absolutely no clue what the issue is. Anybody experienced anything similar?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422369-v35-warm-start-up-issue/
Share on other sites

Is yours direct injection?

I would be removing the throttle body and cleaning the butterfly first. Be careful not to open/play with the butterfly, just clean it.

You will find the plenum is choked with carbon deposits from the EGR valve as exhaust gas is sucked into the plenum on cruise. If you have issues finding someone to remove the plenum and clean it give me a pm. Don't just squirt carby cleaner down the runners...

yeap had the exact issue as described as well and it was the throttle body that was dirty and the butterfly was getting stuck.

note do not disconnect the cable connection to the throttle body as you will then need to do a relearn process on the ECU.

the MAF ( mas airflow sensor is ok to disconnect but I don't recommend turning the car over without it connected

Best thing to do :

Unscrew the air box and tubes and remove them

Disconnect the MAF but just leave it in its tube as you don't need to touch it

once you have the Throttle body easily accessible use the hex key to remove the 4 screws that hold it down ( make sure not to lose the gasket that sits between the throttle body and the motor


Keep the throttle body connected to its electronic cable (unless you want to do a relearn procedure)

put a cloth underneath the throttle body for any carby cleaner that drips off and with another clean cloth and carby cleaner spray and wipe the Throttle body on the inside and out (both sides of the butterfly and the butterfly itself (opening it manually and cleaning the edges)

once done. put it all back and reconnect the air pipes and MAF sensor (don't forget it or it will give you a CEL (check engine light)

and give it a key

some people like to spray a bit of carby cleaner in the air intakes to it cleans the inside of the pneum. I prefer to open it up and clean it properly but either way will do the job



  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...