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Building New Engine


whizzn
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Hey guys

Just starting to buy the parts needed to build a new motor for the GTR and wanted to get some feedback and recommendations on which parts i should be buying

I'll be keeping the motor twin turbo, i have just bought a HKS twin 3037 hi mount kit for the build and about to buy a TRUST drag intercooler to feed the air into so that sides taken care of

I'm still trying to decide which stroker kit to go for, Nitto and Brian Crower kits come to mind, just not sure which ones best and have no idea on reliability on these kits

Headwise i'm at a loss, love to find a full spec JUN head lying around somewhere but i don't think that's going to happen so need some feedback on which cams etc you think would best suit the turbo's etc

Intake manifold i'm thinking of using the Greddy unit then makes it easy to buy the piping as you can get the kit from TRUST to match the cooler to manifold

What are the SARD fuel rails like? Stupid question really but one i need answering and which injectors fit into these etc as i've heard there's 2 types and there not interchangable

Pretty much guys i'm giving you clean slate to post your ideas on what would make a strong RB26

Looking forward to getting some feedback on this

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whizzn where do i get a job like yours? what your proposing is going to cost a buttload of $$$

Being that you live in Midland, go get yourself a roadtrain licence and you'll get a job like mine tomorrow :)

Now seriously guys i was kinda hoping this could of been an informative thread but i guess i was hoping for too much

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If I'm spending other people's money

OS giken 3.15 crate engine, Vcam, extensive porting, oversize valves, dual valve springs big exhaust cam 280degree etc

Hypertune plenum with 100mm throttle body

Id2000 injectors, big fuel system, E85

That's if I had endless amount of money :P

Might want to have a look at the Powertune R34 GTR runs a Brian crower stroker kit

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Sounds like you are straight out of the asylum and ready to spend up :) AWESOME! :)

If it were my engine and I wanted the sort of grunt twin 3037s are going to get you then you need every cc you can get so would be going for the BC. As for inlets the Greddy style plenums that retain the multi throttle setup are common in Japan...so too the Endless style inlets. Not much being done locally which yields the sort of grutn twin 3037s will net you. 10,000rpm 800hp GTR would be rather sweet

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If I'm spending other people's money

OS giken 3.15 crate engine, Vcam, extensive porting, oversize valves, dual valve springs big exhaust cam 280degree etc

*Trust manifold with standard throttles*

Id2000 injectors, big fuel system, E85

That's if I had endless amount of money :P

Might want to have a look at the Powertune R34 GTR runs a Brian crower stroker kit

fixed
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TWIN 3037'S NEED CUBES. Id look at robbie ward at rips for the bottom end. As for the head, jap componentry is generally junk, and alot of the guys who have built big power engines will back me up on this. Id look at BC double springs and titanium retainers, a good set of guides from supertech, BC make a valve set, but i have not physically seen them but have heard good things, if not, iskenderians or supertech can get you done here as well, id look into headwork by NAPREC, as pretty much EVERY piece of information ive read about them points to them bieng the ballsack, if its not possible, look at JHH in qld, MOPOWER in qld, Bullet is also worth a mention with thier 5 axis cnc they seem to get good flow results. The Trust/Greddy manifold with a set of naprec 50mm throttles, ID2k's or even some of NRE's new design of billet 3k fuel injectors, a suitable fuel system with at least dual 3/8 feeds and a 1/2 return, a set of the super secret camshafts from the boys at unigroup, and a twin 4 inch system, oh, and id be throwing a wet sump system at the very least at it, though with the outlay in engine componentry id look at a dry sump for sure. The rest is pretty well universal. Ecu choice is up to tuner, ignition system is up to tuner and what they are comfortable with (although, im looking at designing a plate and harness to convert the pencil style coils to a coil near plug system with LS2 truck coils with in built ignitors) Im sure there are a plethora of other things people will chime in with so just keep reading

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Being that you live in Midland, go get yourself a roadtrain licence and you'll get a job like mine tomorrow :)

Now seriously guys i was kinda hoping this could of been an informative thread but i guess i was hoping for too much

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yeah i have a HR license but cant seem to make the connection between living in midand and getting a roadtrain license. . anyhows if i had a big budget like yours then id be looking at a bulletproof stroker bottom end (3.4 litre) to start with

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Might want to have a look at the Powertune R34 GTR runs a Brian crower stroker kit

Cheers mate will do a search for that one when i get home again

TWIN 3037'S NEED CUBES. Id look at robbie ward at rips for the bottom end. As for the head, jap componentry is generally junk, and alot of the guys who have built big power engines will back me up on this. Id look at BC double springs and titanium retainers, a good set of guides from supertech, BC make a valve set, but i have not physically seen them but have heard good things, if not, iskenderians or supertech can get you done here as well, id look into headwork by NAPREC, as pretty much EVERY piece of information ive read about them points to them bieng the ballsack, if its not possible, look at JHH in qld, MOPOWER in qld, Bullet is also worth a mention with thier 5 axis cnc they seem to get good flow results. The Trust/Greddy manifold with a set of naprec 50mm throttles, ID2k's or even some of NRE's new design of billet 3k fuel injectors, a suitable fuel system with at least dual 3/8 feeds and a 1/2 return, a set of the super secret camshafts from the boys at unigroup, and a twin 4 inch system, oh, and id be throwing a wet sump system at the very least at it, though with the outlay in engine componentry id look at a dry sump for sure. The rest is pretty well universal. Ecu choice is up to tuner, ignition system is up to tuner and what they are comfortable with (although, im looking at designing a plate and harness to convert the pencil style coils to a coil near plug system with LS2 truck coils with in built ignitors) Im sure there are a plethora of other things people will chime in with so just keep reading

Very informative post, thanks heaps

A LOT of good info there

yeah i have a HR license but cant seem to make the connection between living in midand and getting a roadtrain license. . anyhows if i had a big budget like yours then id be looking at a bulletproof stroker bottom end (3.4 litre) to start with

I used to live there myself and was just a stab at how many road train driver positions available outta there into North West which is what i do

Nothing personal

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Cheers mate will do a search for that one when i get home again

Very informative post, thanks heaps

A LOT of good info there

I used to live there myself and was just a stab at how many road train driver positions available outta there into North West which is what i do

Nothing personal

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^^ nah its all good , didnt take that personally. .as you know you need a thick skin living in midland due to the um. .restless natives that live here; anyways as said by another above cubic inches wilbe a big power adder. . . rb30 bottom end stroked out to 3.4 litres will give you heaps of off the mark torque and a less stressed engine (making the same power) than a RB26

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  • 5 months later...

Bringing this thread back to life again as still researching

Looked into the RB30 OS Giken motors but not a fan of leaving the timing covers off for clearance etc

Contacted Powertune about there Elephant package motor as they refer to it which is in the R34, so looks as though is either going to be one of these, a Tomei complete Genesis or a built HKS motor which i'm still waiting for more info on

As mentioned turbo kit has been purchased and i ended up getting the Plazmaman intercooler same as in the powertune R34

Now to point of this point

Currently looking at Inlet manifolds

Hypertune looks to make some good manifolds, is there a HUGE difference between a single throttle one and there unit that keeps the 6 throttle system?

I've seen threads where they enlarge the standard throttles, wouldn't this provide similar flow?

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An OS giken RB26 based motor will fit under the bonnet with very little work, and can retain the timing covers. Just some lengthening of induction and exhaust pipes. I believe they are 25mm taller than stock. That will fit a R34 GTR with no modifications to the bonnet or engine mounts. In an R32 you can lower the k-frame 5-10mm with some spacers and it will fit fine.

Keeping with the stock intake plenum is a good move if going 3lt+, as its just a lot less assing around to get things to fit. I'm currently fighting with my new setup trying to retain my clutch booster because I put a Greddy plenum on the new spacer plate engine.

The less custom you go, the easier it is to get the car running. More reliable and easier to work on that way too.

Consider using 260x10.2 cams or even with more lift. Your stroker motor will love to breath deeply at lower revs and it will make it better to drive off boost, as well as it will be less laggy. The porting work should be as far as you can take it. The largest possible ports you can go. Basically a drag porting setup. It will still drive well at low speeds despite the slower low RPM air velocity as the stroker motor pulls a much stronger vacuum than a 2.6lt would. 280's are way too big, and are best suited to motors that rev past 9000 to make power.

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Very interesting

Just did some research after reading this and looks as though 10mm spacer is easy enough to do and also set of R31 RD28 engine mounts are shorter and should work so just ordered set of these mounts to have a look at and see if infact they will work

Obviously this would only work on a Giken motor as a proper 30 motor would have the adapter plate under block

If this works i can see around an 18-20mm drop in bay which means it would only be around 5mm higher than standard

Interesting

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Except that with a GTR and especially with a welded on sump extension, the sump would be just about making contact with the k-frame when you use lower mounts. (not good considering how a motor moves around when its running). Also the sump section would protrude past the k-frame so it would be exposed to being damaged by speed bumps.

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So your pretty much going drag racing with twin 3037's... is that what you wan't to use the car for?

I'd very seriously consider a nitto 3.2 stroker kit in an rb30 block, with a billet crank girdle/awd adapter plate, red-r racing prepped head. don't bother with v-cam.

Honestly, with such big wizzers, it's almost not worth trying to chase any kind of decent responce, so just shoot for big numbers.... this means, big cams, valves, springs etc etc etc... work on around 8.5:1 static CR, plan for e85, greddy intake manifold is a good thing (I have on on my gtr).

Before you get too far into what bits and pieces you should buy, what workshop/s are you planning to use? who will be tuning the car? the reason I ask, is these are the people you need to talk to before you go buying anything... they have (or should have) a lot of experience in what works well for your car/set up/engine etc.

Given any thought to management? clutch? gearbox? susp? brakes? diffs? fuel system? oil control? etc...

Cheers

Justin

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