Jump to content
SAU Community

Greetings From The United States


Recommended Posts

How's it going guys. My name is John. Been doing research a lot on here but just recently decided to join. I own a few cars. I own a 1974 Fairlady CG-S31. Honestly I've been trying to find a suitable RB30 block but no luck. I found plenty of them on Gumtree but im unable to get ahold of them because of my location outside of Australia. It seems that im restricted. I was hoping you guys on the forum could give me a hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great write up. I was thinking abt getting the niftycity for my g37 the aliexpress links u shared r not working anymore. Can u share again please?
    • Good turnout and some old faces.
    • Wow its been a while since Ive signed in for sure.  Time gets away... Good question. So much was different between the two designs.  The RB315 was a test to see if I could do it.  Limitations were for the most part due to local machining capability.  Tolerances were an issue.  The 3.15 used a single OD dry sleeve, and was almost the same as a kakimoto spacer plate engine, except I used a plate design similar to the OS Giken plate.  I did not make the top flanges thick enough either.  I can't be sure if it was machining tolerances, or thermal distortion of the sleeves, but the engine did produce quite a bit of blow by.  The modified 87mm RB30 crank was also an issue, and was no where near as nicely balanced as the forged 90mm crank in the 3.4. The 34 was a next level build.  The sleeves were stepped for max thickness, and were a semi-wet design breaking though into coolant completely in the block.  Minimum thickness was 3.75mm and max was 5mm with the 90mm bore, and the new spacer plate also fully supported the tops of the sleeves closed deck style.  This combined with far superior CNC machining, and a cylinder hone finish that the machinist does on 3000hp pro stock cars resulted in no noticeable blow by at all.   In the end the 3.15 was removed to swap in the 3.4.  I discovered the modified RB30 crank had partially sheared the woodruff key on the balancer.  That was all that was wrong with it, but it did make the engine a paperweight at that stage. $1100 to make another crank for an engine with blow by issues was not worth it, considering I'd started playing with all Nitto forged internals instead. I hope you found this interesting.   Cheers, Ian
    • All their parts, when order directly off them are made to order. So you're able to customise fitment of things or delete things. E.g. I asked for no throttle cable bracket, no IACV port, etc. on my plenum. In hindsight, I should have asked for an IAT port/fitting welded on, hindsight no. Should have bought a M2 or 3 lol.
×
×
  • Create New...