Jump to content
SAU Community

My 300Gt Is Going Crazy....

NISMO-61
 Share

Recommended Posts

NISMO-61 Contributor

NISMO-61

Posted
Posted

I have had a couple of issues quite recently.

1st of all the car started to stall mostly when I slowed down at the traffic lights. It's quite strange as the car would stall without any sign at all. I mean no shaking, chocking or jumping up an down. when it happens, it takes a bit of time to start the car. you need to hold the key for at least 4 to 5 seconds to restart the car.

I thought the fuel pump was playing up so I changed it. , I had a quick look at one of the spark plugs to see the condition and it seems like there is nothing wrong with it so I assume that others are pretty much the same.

The 2nd issue I had was a bit scary. I was on the freeway, doing 100km/h and all of a sudden the rpm went all the way down to zero and luckily all the way back to 3000rpm. However the car was stalled for a split second. I did shit my pants as you would imagine what might have happened.

I had a quick look at the air filter, Mass Air Flow Sensor, and throttle body. It seems like everything is ok.

Do you have any recommendations about what I should check or do to sort this issue out?

Your help is appreciated.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422705-my-300gt-is-going-crazy/
Share on other sites
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

Have you checked for ECU codes? Could be a crank/cam sensor. Clogged throttle body/ plenum can also cause idle issues, but shouldn't have caused the loss of power you had on the freeway.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

research and check the earthing points / battery terminals.

Wasn't a car doing this on the fwy recently and turned out to be a loose terminal?

If you haven't cleaned out your plenum, the I suggest researching that too- I think that will be the cause of your stall. The throttle closes fully under decelleration, and then cracks back open at the lower rpms to maintain idle. If stuck up with the sticky shite that is so prevelent in DD motors, it won't open again properly and the motor will stall. You will need to perform throttle re-learning as part of that process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • Bman1296
      Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T 1999

      By Bman1296 · Posted

      For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • TurboTapin
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...