Jump to content
SAU Community

front pipe qu..

raz0r$harP.UK
 Share

Recommended Posts

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I want to upgrade my exhaust..3 inch turbo back, hiflow cat, etc.. Probably going to get a Trust one. Anyway just wondering if someone can give me some answers about dump / front pipes - are they the same thing or different?

As an example, on the Unique Autosports exhaust page for 33s (http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/skyline...%20exhausts.htm), they have dump/engine pipes combined, but also separate dump pipes.

If I was looking at something like the Trust MX front pipe, would I need to also get a separate dump pipe?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42275-front-pipe-qu/
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Heaps. I'd say bang for buck, probably not worth it. Pure quality no questions as to cost, well worth it.

under $700 delivered to me HPC coated, perhaps a little noisier but I got boost at the same time as fitting it unfortunately for comparisons however my top end just sings now where it was a little choked.

under bonet temps are lower that's probably the HPC it's a $150 option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42275-front-pipe-qu/#findComment-864696
Share on other sites
Lozza150 Proficient

Lozza150

Posted
Posted

I got a open air wastegate outlet pipe, and three inch dump....

the increase was phenominal.... more torque, heaps better response....

1 problem with open air wastegate..... the noise... it's loud proud and really rude when it opens...

Great for the track but really loud for the street, i plan to plumb it back in to the pipe douwn near the CAT to try and lessen the turbulance....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42275-front-pipe-qu/#findComment-864741
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • gifted1
      Will r33 gtr front reo fit on r33 gtst series 1?

      By gifted1 路 Posted

      *monitoring this thread*  馃槑
    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK 路 Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • GTSBoy
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
脳
脳
  • Create New...