Traction Probs with rwd Cars

[Guest INASNT]

i have been driving a 205rwkw 33 for a long time and now a 223kw with no real traction problems USING HANCOOK TYRES.

they are shagged and i need new ones and i can still get the power to the ground.

i beleive the susp on my car is not stock and thats probably the difference.

I got blistein suspension, pineapples, and 255 nankang rubber on the back of mine and it still grips rather well with 250rwkw and 300rwkw, but it does bunnyhop sometimes in 2nd and 3rd when trying to get traction.

[Bleck]

Thank's for the replies guys. I have no idea what pineapples are (quite tasty though), or what camber I have set so I need to take it to someone before I scream. I'm sick of lighting up the rears all time at the lights or on exiting corners.

Anyone have any recomendations for good places in Adelaide??

[whatsisname]

275/40/17 Nittos, pineapples, -0.4 rear camber (one side has more than the other at the moment - need to go for less) soft shocks and I still have traction issues If anyone has a *insert Jap brand name here* LSD to give away I'll gladly take it

[Merli]

:) @ everyone with under 200rwkw complaining of traction problems...

If I could put 280rwkw down in all the gears without wheelspin in my GTS-t, you shouldn't have any problems with 160rwkw

1. Get some decent tyres. What's the point of complaining about lack of traction when you've got $200 tyres on there??? THE TYRES ARE THE ONLY THING BETWEEN YOUR CAR AND THE ROAD!!! They're the ONLY thing putting your power down onto the road.

2. Look at your alignment settings. Even with rock hard coilovers, I was able to put the power down in all gears.

The only times I had traction problems were a) when the tyres "went off" and went all hard... and B) when I went to Eastern Creek and I tried to launch it and gave it too much gas off the line and overcame the tyre vs. track grip, well DUH!!! of course the wheels were going to spin. Your car isn't exempt from the laws of physics

[Steve]

I have hardish rear sus (8kg springs, near max damp on ohlins), and no real traction problems at all. I do have a bit over 200rwkw.

Get a good rear alignment, minimal toe (0-0.5mm in), get rid of camber (arms or bushes aim for less than 0.5deg neg if possible). Pineapples, which mount against the rear cradle, and hardmount bushes can be used to change the angle of the rear cradle to optimise traction and reduce tramp.

If this doesnt work, get a mechanical diff.

And, as Merli points out - some half decent tyres.

[neil_se]

I've got a 180 with rb20det and hks2530 @14psi, soft suspension, pineapples, fairly decent 225/50/16 tyres and i will break traction above 4500-5000rpm in 2nd, consistently. I'd say i've got a fair bit less weight over the rear wheels compared to r32s and r33s though. Hopefully i'll be able to get a pair of RT215s on another pair of rims to use on particular occasions, but having them as daily tyres just isn't financially viable.

[benm]

I have no idea what pineapples are (quite tasty though)

My thread a while ago from before/after pineapples, read it here

[hungry6]

I just got of the floor from laughing so hard.

I'm still coming to term the hideous tyres ppls are strapping onto their high powered cars

when a taxi driver wouldn't even use.

Go and buy some decent tyres before u come to a sudden halt.

[adznight]

When you press the go pedal remove some lead from your right foot, works well for me

[Busky2k]

Which hankook tyres are you using? If its not the Ventus Sport K104 then I'd definitely look at replacing them.

And yeah just like everyone says, cut down the toe and camber and it should help the problem!

[Jimbo2000]

k102's

thinking of 04's but the 2's are pretty bloody good (for cheapies)

[rb25]

When you press the go pedal remove some lead from your right foot, works well for me

:werd:

i got 265's and my 33 only puts down 140rwkw but with cheap ass tyres (falkens) i could break traction in second easily, rediculous. With the new bridgestone S03's its nearly impossible to break traction in second. So id say tyres would be the first thing to do.

[benm]

Either my car is way down on power/torque (186rwkw) or I have no idea how to "break traction in 2nd". Even with my old old old shitttty Faulkens (225/50/16) I could not break traction in 2nd gear (wet road was a different story, but even then I had to try - it wouldn't just happen).

I've found that now that my Michelin Preceda's have been worn down quite a bit (80+ laps at Wakefield does that to street tyres) that now instead of "spinning" the rear tyres the back end just breaks out into severe axle tramp. If I drop the clutch then it spins (ie; at the drags in the wet) but if I just put my foot down (ie; accellerate) it just breaks out into axle tramp, wet or dry.

I think I need to replace my "bits n pieces" with that full Whiteline kit

[predator]

stay clear of the shitty cheap falkens.. don't be mislead that "all" falkens are good.. they're not, as i found out.

good suspension is a godsend.. but the $$ add up. By the time you sort all that out you would'a spent $4k and there went a lot of other mod ideas on the outright "power" stakes, but its well worth it.

A 180rwkw with good handling will probably beat a 250rwkw bigger turbo car simply because the intelligent guy spent a bit on the handling of the 180rwkw car.

benm: u need to get yours tuned a bit differently.. and run shitty tyres.. it'll spin

[benm]

benm: u need to get yours tuned a bit differently.. and run shitty tyres.. it'll spin

I actually just need to get it tuned, but in order to get it tuned I need to get rid of the std ecu and get a PowerFC to give me more torque By that time my current ok tyres will become shitty tyres

Someone take me for a drive in a car that loses traction in 2nd and 3rd gears, after being in 1 of those I might suddenly become content with only having 186rwkw and not want any more resulting in a better looking bank balance :headspin:

[Ash]

i find i actually have a better launch and go quicker if i only rev first to 5K then shift. its just where first is starting to get wheel spin again and chirps second but doesn't keep the rear wheels spinning like it does if u shift at 7K

Just my 2c.

Ash.

[whatsisname]

Next time your in Adelaide look me up Ben, I'll take you for a spin

I remember ~4yrs ago, back when I had 180rwkw - Dry road, straight line & 1st gear saw the fresh 255 Falkens just starting to spin. After the turbo upgrade WOT in 1st was wheel spin city and WOT in 2nd got the tail a little loose. Now days 1st is just for the drags and cruising away from the lights. 2nd is for doing power slides. I've had a scary moment or two on the drag strip in 3rd - had the back snap out far enough I was headed for the wall! I have that on video somewhere.

[R33vit]

Someone take me for a drive in a car that loses traction in 2nd and 3rd gears, after being in 1 of those I might suddenly become content with only having 186rwkw and not want any more resulting in a better looking bank balance :headspin:

Ben jump in mate

[benm]

With only a std turbo and Semi-slicks you shouldn't be having any traction issues :talk2hand

[R33vit]

With only a std turbo and Semi-slicks you shouldn't be having any traction issues :talk2hand

I'll but my street tryes on for you