Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

well im not sure about the rings in the bottem end i have, i dont wanna get it running and it not perform, i will see what happens as i have 2 bottom ends, one i have bare, plus the one that is currently running in my car that doesnt use oil at all and runs mint, the only thing is it has noisy lifters, but i kinda need the car so i dont know what i should do

mate that car was from when I was silly enough to throw money at it

Glen Hunter from the old TripleG workshop (now owner of Rotorbishi drag car) knocked it up.

25 head, stock rb30 block. some bigger injectors, fuel pump, td0620g if i remember correctly. power fc.

240rwkw at 8psi. full boost came on bloody early. i was and still am a hopeless driver hence glen did the burnout work.

mate that car was from when I was silly enough to throw money at it

Glen Hunter from the old TripleG workshop (now owner of Rotorbishi drag car) knocked it up.

25 head, stock rb30 block. some bigger injectors, fuel pump, td0620g if i remember correctly. power fc.

240rwkw at 8psi. full boost came on bloody early. i was and still am a hopeless driver hence glen did the burnout work.

that is a pretty decent little setup that would have been awesome fun, im looking at goin a little bit bigger with the turbo but ill see what happens, only 8 psi too that's wikked, did it still have vct??

you can make the one loom do both

and yeah wiring rb25 into 31 is easy as

OH REALLY?? I HAVE ALL S1 LOOMS BUT THE MAIN LOOM HAS SOME WIRES PATCHED IN AND ITS DODGEY AS SO ILL PROB GET ANOTHER ONE ANYWAY, shit sorry about the caps lol, ahh good I was hoping it wouldn't be too much stuffing around, gunna leave this bottem end alone and bolt all my stuff on it and see how it goes :yes:

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys so things have definately taken a new direction, a forged rb30det popped up for a good price so i snapped it up, has a 3082 turbo (blown seals :() front facing greddy style plenum, 750cc injectors, wiseco forgies at 8.1:1 ..the engine made 330 rwkw on e85, now what i would like to know is what would a good replacement turbo be?? its a slide industries one so id prefer a better brand, also what sort of supporting fuel system will i need?? cheers guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
  • Create New...