Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Excuse the long story, so i'll try and keep it quick and to the point, i have tried googling first but to hard to pinpoint.

My boost is set to 18psi for high boost, 13psi low boost, although when driving it only hits 15psi most of the time. I went for a drive down a private road and it was making 18psi again ( which it hardly ever does this even though it is suppose to). Went driving around that road again later and still constantly maxing out at 15psi, with exactly the same driving style. Nothing was touched or changed between drives. The car doesnt feel like its struggling or choking, no flat spot with high boost, it just will hold at 15 psi through all gears.

What should i look for as I'd like to get back the 50+hp i am not making, and this was all setup at a workshop if that changes anything.

setup is RB25, Tial 44mm external gate with 1 bar spring, greddy profecb 2, gt3040, wolf v500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423381-only-rarely-makes-full-boost/
Share on other sites

Set your boost controller on high mode (18psi).

Your wastegate spring is set for 1 bar (~14.5psi-15psi) which means there is no way you will be able to hit 13psi.

15psi/1Bar is the lowest pressure you'll be able to run in your setup.

Why would it be a restriction in the pipe work for if sometimes it does reach full boost?

Pipe work is all stainless anyway, 3 inch from turbo to inter cooler all 1 piece, inter cooler to throttle body is 3 inch all 1 piece, 4 inch intake piping, 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust.

Hmmm.....simple things like rubber elbows that are under mechanical load and crimp off when hot. Or variations on the theme. Use your imagination.

Let's face it. If a turbo cannot reach even wastegate pressure then there can only be one a rather short list of things wrong. That would be;

Restriction in the turbo's inlet or outlet pipework.

Wastegate stuck open.

Massive boost leak.

/spoon

I don't know if it matters they are silicone joiners. I don't think it's a boost leak cause rarely it does make 18psi which is what it's set to, and I don't have a vacuum leak if its the same as boost leak?

I might not have worded my problem properly.

Lo boost is 13 psi and it stays on that no problem

Waste gate spring is 1 bar (14.7 psi if I remember correctly)

Hi boost is 18 psi but only reaches 15 (might be 14.7, to close on gauge to tell) but rarely does go to 18 :(

I don't want to go replacing parts cause knowing my luck the last thing I change it will be :(

So could it be waste gate stuck open? If it was I assume lo boost would be stuck on 1 bar (but it isn't)

Solenoid? But it does hold lo boost fine.

Anything else? Does the wolf v500 have a safety boost cut as it could be the map sensor?

I don't know...

I'd be looking for boost leaks mate. Boost leaks aren't the same as vacuum leaks, if you have a split in a hose somewhere that seals itself under vacuum but leaks air at 15psi then that explains your problem.

Faulty boost controller is another option. If your wastegate is 14.7 psi and that's what it runs to when set on high boost, then the boost controller may be failing to do what it has to do (basically bleed enough air or otherwise limit the signal to the wastegate) so that you can go higher. If it does it sometimes and not others then you are looking for an intermittent problem, which is the sort designed to send you insane.

But, as has been said by benelli above, it should not be possible for you to only get 13 psi out of the thing at low boost setting. This is because 13psi is less than your wastegate actuator, and it is not normally possible to achieve that. The wastegate is the physical device with the spring in it. You can fool it to give you more boost by losing some boost on the way to it, but you cannot fool it into giving you less boost, because there is no way to do it.

On that basis, you are back to looking for changeable restrictions or your boost gauge being crap. If the boost gauge is telling you lies, then that is easy to understand. Put a known good boost gauge on it and check. If you have a restriction in your plumbing, then it would be possible for you to get 13 psi against a 14.7 psi actuator, because the turbo could be working to a 14.7 psi output pressure but then you waste some of that boost on the way to the plenum, where the gauge sees boost. That would explain both the 13 psi vs 14.7 wastegate spring and the 15 psi vs the 18 psi high boost setpoint.

Yeah it is driving me crazy. But I definitely get 13psi at lo boost, gauge tells me and dyno printout with map pressure from wolf tell me.

I might try turn boost controller off and see what happens then, don't know why I didn't try this yet.

Bought new silicone hose for vacuum and boost lines so I'll replace all that.

Do actually notice the 15 to 18 psi difference because what If its going to 18 psi but your believing your faulty displays? And when it hits 18 is it a cold time of the day and when it doesn't its hot??. Your boost controller may have a faulty control solenoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...