Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, have a question for ya's as I'm a little stumped

Over the weekend my mate and I installed coilpacks (which fixed boost cutting out), cat back exhaust, turbo timer and boost controller (haven't hooked it up to my custom gauge to read boost yet)

Under low boost, great to hear the typical turbo sounds.

Under high boost, in 3rd gear, on a long stretch I thought I'd seehow she goes. Got to 150 and the car turns off.. Electricals were functional (A/C, H/U, gauges, hazard lights) but engine turned off, no steering etc etc..

I know there is speed cut and boost cut but I don't think they react the was that it did in mine earlier this afternoon.

Any thoughts? mods carried out:

boost controller

turbo timer

cat back exhaust

pod filter

coil packs

coil overs

My guess is boost was set too high and drew too much making car shut off. I have dialed it back and now using low boost until problem is resolved (and get gauge to read again)

Hope that's of some help. Any other questions I'm happy to answer the best I can!

Edited by a6491

Yeah I suspected it could be fuel supply, that is one of the many answers google tells me! but can't rely too much on google.. Kinda like googling why you're sick, you have terminal brain cancer from a cough and runny nose.

But I do have fuel pump lined up I can put in. Nothing for fuel rails yet though!

Fuel rail not important. If you really want to diagnose this, you need to get it on a dyno, with a fuel pressure gauge and wideband hooked up so you can run it up as safely as possible and cut it off if it looks grim. Don't thrash it on the road fercrissake. Last thing we need is another dead 26.

She's right mate, I'm not one of those hoons who clutch kicks it down the main street where possible. I've had my fan, paid my dues. Once you put over 20k into something, it's not something you want dying on you from sheer stupidity!

But yeah I want to dyno it, does make it difficult being 130km away from nearest dyno. Hard to get time off work to do so! Cheers for the tip mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...