Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My skyline keeps blowing a hose off the turbo. Its from the rubber turbo elbow then i have a small 10cm metal pipe connected to the intercooler piping but this pipe has no burs/beading around it so now it pops off every time i boost it. Wondering where i could get a pipe like this locally i think its the 2.25" or 2.75" (stock intercooler piping size for rb25det) or who can add the burs/beading around the pipe. This is kind of urgent as its impossible to drive the skyline off boost if you knowthatfeel. Or if anyone has one lying around it i would like to take it off you.

I have the head of my corolla out again and i need it machined flat, check for warpage etc who is reliable to do that (north side prefferable).

Thanks

Autobarn, supercheap, they have bits of pipe, may have to ring around as they usually have only two or three bits at a time on the shelf.

They have bends and eveything.

Even autopro and repco prob have it too.

Or

you can use two clamps if you have the room, works on mine. no lip. 10 psi.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Post up a picture if you can. I'm sure someone will have something

Ohhhh.. i forgot about my stash of bits of pipe, gimme a minute.

nope sorry

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

I need this done asap so ill check out natrad or fyshwick tomorrow. Its tuned for 21psi's for e85 tune or so but always overboosts initially to (even higher than) i thats when it pops off (motor hasnt popped yet though)

Autobarns and such only have 3" pipes and they are too big

What about head reconditioning/machining who would you guys recommend ?

While im still here, i have a electronic boost controller due to internal wastegate, but the boost controller IN hose is connected to the intercooler pipe AFTER the intercooler (basically near the throttle body). If i weld in a nipple and connect that hose right near the turbo so on the pre intercooler side would that prevent the initial overboost ? My theory is that its taking some time for the boost contoller to react initially since its so far away from the turbo.

could just use T bolt clamps, my setup has no barbs and hoses stay tight at 15psi, just make sure your using the right size hoses as i was reusing one of the factory ones that look pretty much the same on both ends although one side was slightly bigger blowing off all the time until a new 2.5" joiner was bought

While im still here, i have a electronic boost controller due to internal wastegate, but the boost controller IN hose is connected to the intercooler pipe AFTER the intercooler (basically near the throttle body). If i weld in a nipple and connect that hose right near the turbo so on the pre intercooler side would that prevent the initial overboost ? My theory is that its taking some time for the boost contoller to react initially since its so far away from the turbo.

Yes, read ebc install instructions, and you may find (depends on ebc) one near turbo and one at intake plenum. get them the right way or it wont be good.

Keep hoses as short as possible, i think less than 600mm is recommended. Use filters on the hoses, keep them close to the unit, (less than 100mm i think)

I was using a HKS evc4 but its gone funny and gives serious overboost, so im not using it anymore, unreliable. going off the actuator. if i want more boost ill use one of those bleed valves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...