Melted Connector (Plug) Due To Larger In Tank Pump [Pics]

[Ben C34]

Hi all

A few weeks ago I installed an E85 Walbro 460lph pump, directly fed from battery, and had car tuned.

When pump was installed, I was surprised how quiet it was. Over the last few days I noticed it become slightly louder, nothing serious, but thought it was a little strange.

Drove home from work, all good, went to move car and no go. Could hear fuel pump not pumping, but could hear relays clicking. Pretty pumped that it decided not to go while I was at home and didn't need to go anywhere!

Checked all wiring, and power was being supplied to the pump. I still had the old pump so decided to swap it over so I could drive the car. When I pulled out the pump I noticed the plug going to the fuel tank lid was melted, along with the plug underneath going to the pump. This is the reason the pump was not working, confirmed with a multi meter. I still refitted old pump as I am now worried about current draw.

The plug/socket that has melted has now actually got a leak to the fuel tank, which is an issue!

This is in a Stagea, not sure if the tank is similar to Skylines. I have searched but not found anything.

Now I am wondering what to do. I need to buy a new lid, and don't really want to run an external pump.

Maybe it was just a freak occurrence and wont happen again (dirty plug?)

I have considered modifying the damaged lid and running thick gauge cables through directly and epoxying them in, but not sure how it would go with the fuel.

So my current options are

1- Replace damaged bits and hope it doesn't happen again.

2- Run an external pump

3- modify lid to accept larger cables.

I am open to any suggestions / comments

Cheers,

Ben

EDIT

Noticed there are heaps of fuel safe epoxies.

I think I will go for option 3

Pics, didnt take a pic of the internal plug.

Edited April 16, 2013 by superben

[Hanaldo]

I would modify the lid mate. Epoxy resin would easily handle the fuel if that's what you are worried about, once the stuff is set there is no dissolving it. You just need to make sure the area stays clear of fuel until the resin has cured.

[battery]

Seriously these things pull a f**k load like 20-25A! in comparison a bosch 040-044 need around 14A, stock pump would be under 10A.

You need to modify the lid, use 2.5mm in tank and then 4-6mm to battery with 25A fuse. I got a pic somewhere of how i did mine, let me know if you wanna see.

[Ben C34]

Cheers guys. I was aware of the extra current draw, but I suppose I was just hoping for the best

I have already wired it directly to the battery , cant remember the size but it was definitely suitable.

i am going to get some epoxy tomorrow, (after I check to see if I already have some) and a decent connector.

Was planning on drilling out the existing socket to run the wires through there, that way the epoxy can pool up in the recess nicely

[SiR_RB]

I have the same pump and I actualy started to take it apart today so I can bypass the connector !

haven't melted it yet though

[SiR_RB]

I'm thinking of soldering spade terminals from the cable directly and remove the plug

[Ben C34]

That could work well, but I think you will have trouble soldering them as they are pretty deep in the socket, but worth a shot.

[Ben C34]

All sorted. Ended up running 6 or 8 gauge cable through directly to pump. As my connector was melted, i managed to pull out one of the terminals easily and drill a hole, the other side was a bit harder but managed to drill a hole there also. Squeezed the cables through the holes, then filled up the socket with epoxy.

Got a plug off a mate, a 50amp Anderson plug, its fairly big and way overkill but will certainly do the job!

[SiR_RB]

Did you fill the plug underneath with epoxy too??

Good job !

[Hanaldo]

Just a quick one on this, as I'll be buying and installing one of these pumps in the coming weeks to replace my GSS342; how are people running thicker gauge cable all the way to the pump? I've tried to look at the pictures of them, but I can't see properly how the wires connect to the pump.

What gauge wiring do these pumps come with? One would assume that it is sufficient for their amperage draw, but I do wonder. Ideally I would like to run 8-10 gauge cable directly from the pump, up through a modified lid, then to a relay. Do-able?

[Ben C34]

The gauge wire on the pumps is probably 12. Ok for the short distance. I soldered the new wires directly to it and covered with heatshrink. I also offset the joints so they cant touch even if no heatshrink was there, which is good practice anyway. Seems fine with the fuel, as I had the lid off recently to replace the rubber gasket around the lid as it was pretty shagged, but not sure how e85 would go with it.
I have been thinking about how I approached this and want to change it as I don't think it's the best way.
I am worried about capillary action or the pressure in the tanking forcing fuel up through the inside of the wire out of the tank.
I have come up with a new plan that solves that issue, and also removes the need for the plug.

Its using a special Bolt/stud combo I found. If you can't get it, use threaded rod and a nut, but you would have to silver solder the nut to the rod to stop the gap in the thread letting out vapour/fuel.
I have attached a couple of pictures to show what I mean. Only involves drilling a couple of holes through the lid.

That bolt stud thing is one piece, pretty weird!

I was asked via pm but figured i will answer here regarding fitting the pump into the standard cradle.

I didnt take photos, but it fits in the Stagea cradle with a little cutting, and is secured in place with some decent cable ties, which loop through some holes I drilled in the side of the cradle. Even managed to clip the lid back on. Pick up is as low as it was original, and I have run the tank to below the E on the gauge no worries!

BIG TIP

Buy a new rubber gasket for the lid. I paid around 30 from nissan for it. Yours will swell up and not fit back in.

[StevenCJR31]

BIG TIP #2 ^^ you paid too much

wouldve cost you $10 from transeals

Edited July 6, 2013 by StevenCJR31

[Ben C34]

Yep, but where is trans seals in sa? I wanted it there and then, factoring in the fuel driving from sa to wa I saved heaps

Have you got a pic or part number for that part? Is Not a regular o ring.

[Hanaldo]

Yeh a part number would be great, I'll get one from Transeals so thanks for the tips

Superben, thanks for the reply mate, I've got a pretty clear picture of what I can do with it so I'll order one just now. Cheers lads!

Edited July 6, 2013 by Hanaldo

[jet_r31]

i woudn't mind doing this, the 044/walbro combo i have is fairly noisy, its the only thing my wifes complained about, but when i bought it the 460L wasnt out

i just don't really want to getting hi and smell/touch petrol

cheers

darren

[jamesdt]

I tried modifying the lid to take 6mm cable, I drilled out the old spade terminals, put the new 6mm wire through and used permatex cold weld bonding compound which is fuel resistant. Left it to cure over the weekend. Assembled it all back together and after a weeks driving there's been a fuel smell. Checked up on the lid and fuels leaking where the 6mm cables coming through the lid. The cold weld hasn't bonded to the cable properly as I can pull the cable up and down and can see fuel pushing past it or spitting out once the tank has some pressure in it.

Fail!

Mite have to try using this bolt/stud set up with the o ring

[C4a0s]

the bolt/stud combo is a good idea, exactly how Sard does it for their collector tanks.

btw, did u add a simple fuse since u wired it directly to the battery?

normally the current draw shouldnt be so high to melt the connector... unless at WOT for more than 10 mins? maybe u shd prepare for another pump as well. from my experience, a soon to die pump could work intermittently and draw tons of current then next moment work fine.

[Ben C34]

All the good ideas have already been thought of Hey!

I think the connector melted due to a dodgy connection from the plug being a bit dirty, not the pump about to die.

Of course it's still worth getting rid of it and the thin stock wiring.

Definitely added a fuse, right near the battery. No way would I want to run anything Un fused, let alone a cable so big.

[C4a0s]

i once spent the entire afternoon tracing the wiring etc when my pump fuse kept shorting... entire wire mess was fine. next day pump was fine. a week later pump died. weird shit happens with electronics... eliminate the one with highest probability first...

[STATUS]

the bolt pictured is a ls1 coil or coil cover bracket bolt avail just about every where.

we also use them for bulkhead fittings.