Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in tank fuel pump standard wire -

each 044 pump has own wiring apart from, wire from battery splices to each relay the rest is individual wiring from relays to pumps

wire roll says 3mm 10a

hope what i am describing makes sense

Edited by Reese69
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The setup sounds fine, just need to make sure you are running the right gauge wire. Does it look like this:

3mm 10a wire:

20111017003746741.jpg

Or like this:

8-gauge (round about 50a) wire:

C032004-05.jpg

That 8-gauge wire is the absolute minimum I would feel comfortable running from battery to relay for a single pump. If I was splicing that wire into relays for 3 pumps I'd be using 4-gauge wiring, which would admittedly be overkill but wire isn't such a great expense that I feel the need to be stingy about it.

10a wire is whats generally used...

8 gauge is way overkill... :woot: not to mention really thick and hard to hide around the car.. besides, how do u crimp and wire it to relays etc?

On a setup that can potentially see over 20a just in normal operating conditions, 10a wire is never going to cut it. Look at this:

E85_Table.jpg

These pumps draw 15.29 amps just at base fuel pressure. Hence why Resse69's 10a wire burnt out.

8-gauge is not that big, it's your general sound-system size wiring. Not that hard to get around the car, in fact when I had amps and my battery in my engine bay I had three 8GA cables all running the same route and they were invisible. You don't want your wiring to be the weak point of any electrical setup, but especially not in your fuel system.

As for wiring, that's easy. Use a horn relay with big terminals, and connectors to suit the wire size.

10a wire is whats generally used...

8 gauge is way overkill... :woot: not to mention really thick and hard to hide around the car.. besides, how do u crimp and wire it to relays etc?

As mentioned, 8 gauge isn't hard at all to use. I can't remember exactly but pretty sure the wiring should be capable of double the intended load. Not to mention reese had burnt out 10a wire numerous times, how can you say it is ok?

Edited by superben

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...