Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I’ve decided to bite the bullet and put my Stagea up for sale. It is a big decision for me because I love this car to bits and it holds far more sentimental value than the dollars it will sell for. But, I have two other cars and all this one does these days is collect dust and take up a car space so it’s time to let her go to a new home where she’ll be used.

A bit of history on the car.... I bought it in early 2009 from a member on here in Brisbane who managed only about 1600kms in his two years of ownership. He was the first owner in Australia and bought it from MJR Motorsports on the Gold Coast, who imported it and had it as a demo car. Prior to that is anyone’s guess, but as it was in immaculate condition with some very rare aftermarket modifications, I would say whoever owned it in Japan definitely knew what they were doing and looked after it very well.

For me, I have used it as my daily and road trip car – driving between Brisbane and Melbourne several times a year up until early 2013 when I bought a new car. I initially bought it to be a tow car but I never installed the towbar because I didn’t want to wreck it.

Along the way, I spent a little bit of money on modifications which were done purely to refine the package without going overboard in any way. Below is a list of all modifications on the car:

1997 Series 1 C34 Stagea RB25DET auto

Engine: 170,000km
3" stainless steel combined dump and front pipe
3" APEXi cat back – new adjustable muffler included
K&N panel filter in stock airbox (only just bought/fitted)
260RS Intercooler with custom alloy piping
earth kit

Drive line and Wheels:
MV Automatics Stage 2 shift kit
Davies Craig transmission cooler
rear LSD
R34 GTR 18x9 wheels

Brakes and Suspension:
CSC 4 piston callipers (front)
CSC 343mm 2 piece rotors (front)
Bendix Ultimate pads (front)
braided brake lines (front)
BM57 Brake Master Cylinder
POTENZA Super Wagon shocks and springs – sits very flat around corners
D Project stronger tie rods
D Project rose jointed tie rod ends

Interior:
BLITZ Spec S boost controller (hidden under dash)
GReddy Emanage piggy back ECU (very neat install in the glovebox)
GReddy boost gauge
Tinted windows (rear limo tint, rear windscreen and front door windows slightly less dark)
JVC stereo with Alpine front speakers
Immobiliser and alarm
S15 Silvia driver’s seat (comes with standard seat as well)

Exterior:
Genuine 260RS full body kit (rare)
Larger rear Wing
Roof racks deleted with replacement trim (super rare)
De-badged
Full snow pearl respray (was done in Japan and was a quality job)

I have driven the car for about 70,000kms, had it since the odometer read 100,000. Although that is higher than most, it has mostly been accumilated on long highway drives up and down the East Coast, which is pretty easy on the car with low wear and tear. It has been super reliable with needing only normal regular servicing. Recent maintenance includes a new battery, front drive shaft boots replaced, coolant flush with new thermostat, new tyres, replaced starter motor and new headlight globes. I always use full synthetic oils and only 98RON fuel.

post-57747-0-93853600-1366199939_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-89604300-1366199979_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-68538800-1366200003_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-60006700-1366200061_thumb.jpg

post-57747-0-75887400-1366200084_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-20880600-1366200104_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-89671400-1366200128_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-88946600-1366200224_thumb.jpg

post-57747-0-47060500-1366200142_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-80492400-1366200205_thumb.jpg

The car has been incredibly useful for transporting bulky things – fridge, furniture, engines, body panels, wheels, tyres ect. It is truely amazing how much can be put in the back. There are a few pictures attached to demonstrate the cargo capacity.

post-57747-0-26188300-1366200246_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-75949700-1366200264_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-03881000-1366200279_thumb.jpg

Bad points:

I'll be completely honest here as no car is without fault....

-The front bumper has plenty of stone chips and if you're pedantic you may want to respray the lower lip, but it's only minor really and hasn't worried me.

-The mufflers in the catback have developed a few small holes. You can't hear them but I know they're there. I bought ($400) a twin tip varex muffler and will include that with the purchase so the buyer can make a new catback for low cost if they choose to.

-The last tune was done approximately 2 years ago so could probably benefit from a touch up. Only minor changes have been made since then and it runs mint but a touch up could maybe net some gains.

-There is a very small amount of rust under the passenger side mirror which is typical of a Stagea but no big deal and hardly noticeable.

-There is a scratch on windscreen from a wiper insert that broke on me mid storm so I didnt realise it scratching. It's on the passenger side and doesn't impair visibility or distract at all. Happened years ago and I haven't worried about changed it.

Car is located in Canberra but currently has QLD rego (just moved). Will change to ACT rego soonand will include a RWC in the sale.

Any questions feel free to ask I don't have my phone on me during the day so contact on here by pm is best.

$12000

Kurtis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423732-1997-rs4-stagea-with-tasteful-mods/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I don't have any photos that closely show the roof. In the pic below, you can see the plastic trim which filled the area where the roof rack used to be mounted. You can see it follows the contour of the roof perfectly and is colour coded.

post-57747-0-87369000-1366624650_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-82320400-1366624791_thumb.jpg

Forgot to mention before, I can remove things like the wheels and brakes if you would like to negotiate a lower price.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

would really like to hand this car over to a new owner. It's been sitting in my garage unused for most of the year.

I've dropped the asking price down to $10,000 which is a lot less than I'm happy with.

post-57747-0-13923300-1382453517_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-20494200-1382453530_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-44984800-1382453576_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-41552400-1382453626_thumb.jpg post-57747-0-13225400-1382453616_thumb.jpg

please email or PM me if you're interested

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...