Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Located in Melbourne Ivanhoe area.


R32 GTR Exhaust

Full exhaust system for an R32 GTR, some parts will fit other models but selling all in one, don't have time to separate.


This setup happily made ~300rwkw on the Racepace dyno. Consists of:


- HKS stainless dump pipes (genuine, bought through Nengun, came in the full kit)


- Straight through test pipe

- Trust stainless Power Extreme II cat back


All in very good condition, could just use a bit of a clean / polish if you can be bothered.


Note doesn't include factory bracket attached near test pipe.


The black stuff on the muffler is just sound deadening that's fallen through when stripping the car for track, not a leak, will clean it off before pickup.


Whole setup for $900


TEIN Super Street Aus Spec suspension

Done probably road ~2000kms if that, engine went and car has been off the road since, not long after they went in.


Upgraded TEIN springs on the front installed by TruTrack 6kg front, 4kg rear.


Near new condition.


These fronts are as I pulled them out of the car, they haven't been cleaned shows what sort of life they have seen. Rears are still in the car, coming out tomorrow but are in the same sort of condition.


Price is $800


Photos


Exhaust



IMG_0821_zps1287fa8e.jpg

IMG_0820_zps15735e30.jpg

IMG_0819_zps2814f930.jpg

CIMG6588_zps017ab2c5.jpg



Suspension

IMG_1153_zps8112b1ef.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Sorry I've been away for a while. Are they still for sale and if so what rates are they ie, is that a hard/track type setting or soft/street use?

Cheers

Sorry I've been away for a while. Are they still for sale and if so what rates are they ie, is that a hard/track type setting or soft/street use?

Cheers

Yes still available - 6kg front & 4kg rear springs. They are the aus spec versions so valving has been developed for local road conditions.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...