Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

this is my rb26/30 build

by kanaris engine in melb

rb30 block - cryogenic block and girdle

cp pistons

9310 pins

upgraded loxx by cp

carrillos rods

AT1 balancer

L19 Head studs

Jun 12 main studs

9L sump ASR

Billet motorsports external oil pump kit

annual groove main tunnel

Head getting done now

2mm inlet/2mm ex valves

supertech valve springs seats retainers

ferrea valve locks

tomie 260/270 cams 10.25 lift

tomei lifters

tomie cam gears

looking at 1000hp at the engine

going in vl

post-87775-0-67934300-1366281902_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-07005600-1366281915_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-07661800-1366281926_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-42773000-1366281938_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-10906700-1366281950_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-54303800-1366281964_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-53420400-1366281976_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-68541000-1366281985_thumb.jpg

post-87775-0-61220500-1366281996_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423779-rb-2630-build/
Share on other sites

I always thought running flat tops means u can run more lift.

comp ratio going to be around 7.8 to 8.1

reason that low comp - less pinging high boost ,

makes more power then high comp - all types of fuel

I notice a lot of high comp boost rb have head/studs lifting issues

allways prefer low comp high boost/ high comp low boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423779-rb-2630-build/#findComment-6823429
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I here'd about weathering/seasoned blocks are better for hp than new block for cast iron - new block will move and flex up until 100,000km

Idea is the hot and cold temp stop the cast iron from expanding/ flexing - taxi blocks would be good idea

I left the rb30 block outs side for 6 months bare wit the girdle and just befor sent to engine shop I went to cryogenics

I believe this theory works , some might disagree

crank wouldn't think be any benefits

only cost $200 shop in melb -http://www.cryocycle.com.au/

Gerry

Edited by chairman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423779-rb-2630-build/#findComment-6922218
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another question sorry, what stainless do u use in the turbo external WG plumb back piping? Is it 321, 316 or 304?
    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
×
×
  • Create New...