Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just about stumped. I have timing set at the proper marks, I have spark at all six plugs, and I definately have fuel. The ECU is reading a '55' on every diagnostic, my ignitor, my afm, and my CAS work in my friends RB20DET just fine.

I have cleaned out the AAC valve and can't find any vacuum leaks.

The only indications I get of any problems are that my car will not idle higher than a few hundred RPM and all 6 of my plugs foul up really quick. I have checked the ignition and CAS harnesses from the ECU and they check out good, so no breaks in the harnesses.

I'm starting to grasp at straws, I'm going to ohm out the AFM harness in the morning and work from there. Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? I'm going nuts.

Thanks for any input,

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42379-help-idlingignition-troubles/
Share on other sites

Your components work on your friend's engine, do his components cause the same problems on your engine?

What is the fuel pressure?

Have you had the injectors cleaned?

Check the water temp sensor (disconnect it - does anything change?). Swap it with your friend's.

Check the Air Regulator (under the throttle body)

I know it has to be something stupid, we performed a cam swap and of course had to remove several vacuum lines and sensor harnesses to tear down the top end. After the swap I get no idle and plug fouling on all 6. I'll recheck fuel pressure and look at the air reg and do some more component swaps.

Thanks,

-Matt

i have similar issue, but opposite - my r33 run lean on idle and stalls

i even disconnected the CAS and injectors and AFM and my ECU read 55.. so it obviously doesn't tell you too much!

are you running standard ECU with those cams? are they standard cams or larger ones?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...