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Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box
Looking for: $110

Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition.

Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H

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Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier
Looking for: $110

Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well.

The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test.

110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz
Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB

More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model)

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General Information

Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month.

Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier.

You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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