Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was the check engine light on at all? How many KM's has the car done and what is the service history like? Maybe the timing chain has stretched resulting in the aforementioned trouble codes.

The engine light never came on, when I had the ticking issue. It would only come on when I unplugged the blue plug on the driver side. When it was unplugged, the ticking noise would go away but the engine light would come on. then plug it back in and drive the car for a few days, then the engine light would turn off.

Then I started to have stalling issue. The car would stall at the lights, even sometimes while driving, happened once on the freeway. engine stalled, all the lights came on for a split second and then started again by itself. I changed the oil pump thinking that it might have been the cause, but wasn't.

Then the vibration started. when it started, the car was no longer stalling, and the engine was not ticking at all. It would only vibrate in idle, when you drive the car, it would run nice and smooth.

This Friday, I was driving home from work and the damn thing stalled (hadn't stalled since that vibration started-more than 2 weeks). Initially the car didn't start. I got out and sat there for about 10 minutes to figure out what to do. then when I got back in to try one more time before calling a tow truck, it started.

The car had 108.000km on the clock if it's the correct number.

has been serviced every 10.000km since I got it (it was 47.000km when I got it)

the timing chain doesn't make any noise at all. Even when I had that ticking noise, it wasn't the timing chain.

You need to get the codes read again. Nissan would have read every code logged since the last ecu reset, so now it will just be the sensor error responsible for the stalling.

Changing every sensor without diagnosing the fault is just crazy. Nissan just want all your cash.

Drop in if you like and I will check the codes. (free of charge) You can decide what you want to do after that. I don't imagine it's very safe driving it far, the way it is atm.

Hey guys, i have a 2003 300gt and i have noticed that it idles a little harsh. Im not having as many issues as NISMO-61, my car has never stalled. it has 45,000 kms, and at idle its a tad harsh. i have also had a few misfires.

its been suggested to change the spark plugs, (but they should be fine for those kms) and change the oxygen sensor.

what are your thoughts?

Thanks

There is a good chance the plugs are shot, after all they are 10 years old. The o2 sensor can be easily tested for correct operation. Perhaps the injectors need a clean also?

I highly doubt your km's are correct, looks like the importer got greedy with the odo trim.

Im going to clean the plenum, and have a look at the plugs. if they look foul i will replace them. But i think cleaning the plenum will help a lot. i will also be able to see how much crud there is and relate that to kms. i know heaps of these are wound back, but i have the original books that came with the car and it includes service history. it shows it was serviced very regularly. and my importer couldnt have wound them back because i saw the car as soon as it arrived. it all seems to add up.
and i might put through some injector cleaner

thanks for the tips

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...