Remove Front Wheel Bearing

[mrsr32]

i've taken the front carrier out of the car and undone the big nut on the back of the hub. now how on earth do i get it out of the carrier? no where near as easy as the 4 bolts that held the rear together

[White GTS-T]

The front hub/uprights on the R chassis are an interference fit. You will need ~ a 20 ton press to separate them after you have removed the circlip.

[sonicz]

Lol That was fast. I asked essentially the same thing got shit all answers.

"What is the easiest way to fit brand new quality bearings on my car?. I will be doing it with a friend. Hes changed bearings before on a few times on standard cars, Starlet bluebird etc,"

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423302-had-both-front-hubs-control-arms-replaced-problems-now-worse-no-more-money-diy/

Guess I need to just cut the fluff and get to the point.

So a hammer and a piece of wood wont do it then? Are you going genuine Nissan bearings?

Edited April 25, 2013 by sonicz

[White GTS-T]

I hadn't seen your thread. But no, you will not be able to separate the hub/uprights without a press.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-front-wheel-bearing-kit-genuine-nissan-300zx-z32-skyline-r32-2wd-r33-2wd-r34-2wd-p-303.html

[sonicz]

Ah k so, Take the hub asembly out at home, take it to a shop with a press, and get them to press the old out and new in then?

Any recommendations in syd with a press?

Yea I was going to order online from kudosmotorsport or justjap. I take it both have good reps?

[White GTS-T]

Yeah that would be your best bet. I was going to post a link to Justap as well, but their website was playing up at the time. Any decent mechanics/engineering place should be able to help you out.

[sonicz]

You be surprised. I've asked the mechanics I know in the past if they have a press for bushings and stuff and none of them did.

Also I would need them open on a Saturday.

[mrsr32]

are the carriers the same between skylines like r33/r32?

[White GTS-T]

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-front-wheel-bearing-kit-genuine-nissan-300zx-z32-skyline-r32-2wd-r33-2wd-r34-2wd-p-303.html

Front Wheel Bearing Kit - Genuine Nissan 300ZX Z32, Skyline R32 (2WD), R33 (2WD) & R34 (2WD)

This Listing Suits The Following Application(s):

• Nissan 300ZX RZ32 NA (VG30DE, 07/1989 - 07/2002)
• Nissan 300ZX RZ32 TT (VG30DETT, 07/1989 - 07/2002)
• Nissan Skyline HR32 GTS (RB20DE, 05/1989 - 08/1993)
• Nissan Skyline H©R32 GTS-T (RB20DET, 05/1989 - 08/1993)
• Nissan Skyline HR32 GTE (RB20E, 05/1989 - 08/1993)
• Nissan Skyline ECR32 GTS25 (RB25DE, 08/1991 - 08/1993)
• Nissan Skyline HR33 GTS (RB20E, 08/1993 - 05/1998)
• Nissan Skyline E©R33 GTS25 (Series 2) (RB25DE, 01/1995 - 05/1998)
• Nissan Skyline E©R33 GTS25 (Series 1) (RB25DE, 08/1993 - 01/1995)
• Nissan Skyline E©R33 GTS25-T (Series 2) (RB25DET, 01/1995 - 05/1998)
• Nissan Skyline E©R33 GTS25-T (Series 1) (RB25DET, 08/1993 - 01/1995)
• Nissan Skyline HR34 20GT (RB20DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001)
• Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001)
• Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT-T (RB25DET Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001)

[White GTS-T]

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19333&cat=&page=1

If you want to pay postage to send them to Vic, I can do it for you.

[sonicz]

Really appreciate the offer man, but I think I'll have to wrap it up all in the same day.

I'll probably take to to a suspension place nearby to get them pressed. If anything changes I'll let you know

You have a press at home ?

Edited April 27, 2013 by sonicz

[White GTS-T]

No worries. I'm a mechanic and we have a 20 ton and a 50 ton press as work and I've gone through this process before when I had my knuckles modified for drifting.

[sonicz]

Whirte GTS-T, You seem very knowledgeable so I'll ask you for some advice if you don't mind.

Recently blew almost $400 by paying a shop to change my upper control arms (the car came out worse at the end). Because it had a noise, we agreed he would tighten the f**k out of the bolts. The steering now feels very hard to turn, and cornerning is difficult, (but the noise is gone) you really have to battle the car steering wheel get it to go around a corner whereas before it was peppy and loved to turn in.

I am not sure if the second hand control arms are just stiffer/shitter or its because he tightened everything too hard, but I want to re do all the bolts. Do you happen to know the torque settings for the bolts around there?

Secondly, when I'm changing the bearings It will be a good time to fit adjustable camber arms. Just curious how badly do the stock camber control arm bushes get worn here because I am perfectly happy with my current -1.7 front camber with the stock arms, so I would be changing them just to replace the worn bushes.

These bushes here.

Here are the stock arms out

Sure those bushes will not cause much trouble even if they are stuffed? Worth going to a set of new adjustable control arms like the orange ones in the pic just for the sake of those new rubber bushes? Frankly I'm more concerned about the bushes in the upper control arms themselves where the camber arms link up but I have NFI how one would replace those...

Edited April 28, 2013 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

Something else must be wrong. It shouldn't matter if you locked the upper control arms to the chassis, you should still be able to turn the steering. Steering pivoting happens in the upper bearing and lower bearing on the upright. I seem to recall you mentioning that you swapped your uprights to try to solve your wheel bearing issue? Then you also swapped the other bearings and the problem could well be there.

[White GTS-T]

If your worried about NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) don't fit aftermarket rose jointed Upper control arms. If you want more/less camber then install offset bushes.

The bolts for the bushes should be done up in a laden position, preferable at ride height, with the vehicle on flat ground. However due to the position of the arms this may not be possible on a four post hoist. If using a two post hoist, they should be done up with a wind up jack under the Lower control arm to simulate the loaded position.

Also if the camber is altered at all, it will also affect the castor and toe, so a wheel alignment should be carried out after any changes.

Taken from the R34 workshop Manuel

[sonicz]

Not really worried about NVH, just hate clunkiness and poor handling. The adjustable camber arms are just solid pieces of metal with rubber bushes on one end that bolt to the chassis end, not rose joined?

I can get these for as low as $200 for a pair to do both front sides, I believe bushes cost around this much anyway and a PITA to change yourself at home. This is why I was asking if these units will help out making the car feel newer/better.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-/130793547716?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e73e727c4&_uhb=1

Thankyou for getting those torque specs. I too was unable to find the service manual for the r33, but easily for the 34, However, I assume all the torque specs would be the same between the 34 and 33?

To be honest I am going to need to ask a mehcanic which bolts are which. I am not sure which bolts they are reffering to. I would much rather they had a diagram with arrow pointing to the bolts and the torque specs.

Edited April 29, 2013 by sonicz

[White GTS-T]

Steering knuckle to third link (marked with 'L'), third link to upper link front and rear (circled).

[sonicz]

Thanks man. Doh I forgot to add ball joints to my cart. Now I have to pay again for postage.

Is there anything else when doing the front bearings I can change in working in that vicinity I am forgetting?

So far I have

-New tie rod ends

-New Front wheel bearings

Whiteline Polyurethane Radius rod bushes (I don't want rose jointed caster rods)

-Soon to order new Ball joints http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/kudos-motorsports-ball-joint-front-rear-outer-lower-nissan-200sx-s14-s15-skyline-r32-2wd-front-only-r33-2wd-r34-2wd-p-214.html

-Still undecided If I should order the adj Camber arms.

Did I miss anything?

See that pic you reposted with the Orange arms. What are those bushes in the upper control arm. The ones between the black bits you said are marked with an "L"

Lastly, the car will be jacked up at the centre of the front cross-member with a hydraulic jack, and I will have 2 jack stands on the front only. So your saying before I torque any bolts that connect to bushes, I should place a seperate wind up jack underneath the lower control arm, and raise it until the whole hub assembly sits about where it would at ride height?

Edited May 2, 2013 by sonicz

[GTSBoy]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423034-upper-trunion-bearings-r32-gtst-bearing-numbers/

Is there anything else when doing the front bearings I can change in working in that vicinity I am forgetting?

[GTSBoy]

Oh, by the way....rose jointed caster rods kick urethane bushed ones all over the place. They hardly add any NVH, yet they massive improve wheel location and actually give you the ability to put some real adjustment in there. The adjustable urethane ones give you a bee's dick of adjustement. I have urethanes in mine at the moment (so the car could get inspected - had to be legal) and am hating it. Will be putting the solids back in as soon as I have an opportunity.

Sure, they are defectable, but they are very likely to be overlooked by a roadside cop, and are easily changed for a roadworthy inspection on the very off chance you actually get busted. I have nearly everything else on my car as close to legal as possible....except those rods. They are worth it.

Edited May 2, 2013 by GTSBoy