Car Stalls While Driving

[lav]

Hi Guys,

I have been having this issue where when I am driving my GTR32 (1992, stock) on the freeway or even suburban roads on a constant speed, the car starts stalling as there is no enough power going to it. When I put my foot down, it takes off like no one's business, which is good...only happens when I put very light weight on the accelerator while drying on a constant speed...

- I have serviced the car and changed the spark plugs, made difference for 2 days and it started again.

- I thought it was over heating, so I completely changed the coolant and it was fine for a day and started again.

- Changed and cleaned the air filters

- Changed the fuel filter and was fine again for a day

- Changed the injectors

The car stalls a bit while driving on constant speed but not as much as it feels like it is going to die.

Not sure what the problem is and I couldn't find anything else on Internet related to this. Maybe it needs tuning? could it be dirty AFM? no consistent fuel vs air? If someone could suggest something, it will be great...

Thnaks guys

[Leroy Peterson]

what rpm do you cruise at?
Has it ever happened when you put your foot on the clutch (and the revs drop) at a set of lights or something?

Maybe when your next service is due, do a de-carb of the throttle body/top end. Most likely not the cause, but no harm done.

[DaveyR32]

Had the same problem try ur ignitor it fixed mine

[Sunkist]

Could also be a vac leak, my Stagea did it when you initially press the accel pedal, and would kind of die and catch itself. It was because one if the vac hoses had slipped off the plenum.

[lav]

Nah, that has never happened.....

if im on low gear and on constant speed, it stalls and can feel it in the cabin....if im on higher gear and cruising on the freeway from 80 - 100kph, it starts and when I accelerates a bit more, it stops and starts again if i take a bit of the load off my foot again...

It is very annoying...

Maybe I will get it de-carb next time and see how it goes....

I was thinking about the coilpacks, but cant be as it only does that on a constant speed...when Im at the lights, its rpm's are fine, no drops in rpm, taking off, is fine too...

[lav]

def not vac leak, i've had that and felt it before, but this is completely different...thanks for the suggestion Sunkist

[blind_elk]

How old is the battery?

Does the torque split gauge do anything stupid?

[STATUS]

Nah, that has never happened.....

if im on low gear and on constant speed, it stalls and can feel it in the cabin....if im on higher gear and cruising on the freeway from 80 - 100kph, it starts and when I accelerates a bit more, it stops and starts again if i take a bit of the load off my foot again...

It is very annoying...

Maybe I will get it de-carb next time and see how it goes....

I was thinking about the coilpacks, but cant be as it only does that on a constant speed...when Im at the lights, its rpm's are fine, no drops in rpm, taking off, is fine too...

dont ever de carb nissan motor, decarb iac but not motor.

[lav]

Havent noticed if the torque does anything different...will check it out today when it happens again.....

Trent - What is iac?

[Odium]

Idle Air Control valve, it controls the amount of air that enters the engine on idle, adjusting it for additional loads (Air Conditioning, etc) as well as Cold Starts.

Sometimes it gets clogged up with carbon buildup and doesn't function as it should.

It sits on the back of the intake plenum (it's about the size of a fist) and can be removed and cleaned out with a good spraying of Parts Cleaner.

[Leroy Peterson]

you skyline people sometimes call it AAC.

write-up here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/?hl=%20clean%20%20acc

[lav]

Thanks heaps trent for the solution...i cleaned it in my gtr32 and it is so much more better now while driving...the amount of carbon/dirt that came out of it was unbelievable!!!! i also cleaned the air sensor for the afm's...damn it feels good driving now....

also thanks to Le-Roy for looking up the post for me...post is for rb20/25, but i got the idea of doing it on rb26...

[lav]

actually, it started again...damnnn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Odium]

hmmmmm, have you tried resetting your ECU and letting it relearn how to idle etc?

Could be a small vac leak that only opens up sometimes, and the ecu isn't compensating for it?

[lav]

could be, will have a look at any further leaks on the vacum hose this weekend...this is so frustrating....lol

[firstgtst]

Hey mate, i dont have a rb26 but i had the same problem with my rb20. I replaced as many things as i could. I cleaned all these parts people are telling you to clean, but after everything i finally found after trying a 3rd afm - it finally went away! Another mate had the same problem and we tried my afm on his car and it made no difference so we tried my crank agle sensor on his car and it fixed it. So basically it is a process of trial and error! But try a few different air flow meters. Hope that helps!

[lav]

Thanks firstgtst...will probably give that a go too...might spend some money to get some after market afm....

[Iron Mike]

Two things come to mind. The first isn't applicable seeing as you've already stated that the car is stock, and that is - air/fuel ratio problems due to aftermarket atmospheric-venting blow off valves. The second, and this may be a long shot, but your transfer case may be having problems or on it's way out. I drove a GTR (not mine) once which had different size rims front and back (incompetent owner) and it was the weirdest/scariest thing I ever drove. The car would take off fine then the gear stick would jerk back and forward, and even after depressing the clutch and selecting a gear nothing would happen. The car would then stall - turns out he royally f***** his transfer case due to his intelligible wheel selection