Jump to content
SAU Community

WTB: APEXI POWER FC+H/C & APEXI BOOST KIT FOR R33 GTR


Recommended Posts

Power FC & HC + boost controller for $1150 delivered

Hi,

Im not after the apexi boost controller anymore as a lot of people have advised me that they dont hold boost to well on GTR's. I can offer $800 C.O.D for the PFC & HC.

Thanks.

Guest two.06l
Im not after the apexi boost controller anymore as a lot of people have advised me that they dont hold boost to well on GTR's. I can offer $800 C.O.D for the PFC & HC.

Thanks.

another silly unsubstanciated claim on the forum

we run an apexi avc-r on staceys race car.we are currently running 25psi and it uses exactly the same solinoid as the power fc kit does.graphed the boost levels on croydons dyno and dont think i have seen a flatter boost line(dead straight on max boost).with her new turbo upgrade we are confident of upping the ante to 30psi.hope this has helped with your decision.

another silly unsubstanciated claim on the forum

we run an apexi avc-r on staceys race car.we are currently running 25psi and it uses exactly the same solinoid as the power fc kit does.graphed the boost levels on croydons dyno and dont think i have seen a flatter boost line(dead straight on max boost).with her new turbo upgrade we are confident of upping the ante to 30psi.hope this has helped with your decision.

Hi,

Thanks for your input. I was advised that its not to do with how much boost your running but to do with the springs in the actuator. With the factory actuators they start to open around 10-11psi so the boost controller struggles to hold more boost at stable levels such as 15-16psi. Correct me if i am wrong. I do appreciate other peoples opinions.

Guest two.06l
Hi,

Thanks for your input. I was advised that its not to do with how much boost your running but to do with the springs in the actuator. With the factory actuators they start to open around 10-11psi so the boost controller struggles to hold more boost at stable levels such as 15-16psi. Correct me if i am wrong. I do appreciate other peoples opinions.

yeah fair point we have hks actuators on that car.......but.last weekend we set an avc-r up on one of our other gtrs running stock turbo/actuators and works great at holding 1.1 bar and car ramps up to max quite quickly.the comment in this thread advised that it was the apexi that was at fault and this is not the case,as you have just pointed out.cheers and good luck with your setup.

I can see where your coming from. If i can find an apexi b/c with the pfc and h/c as a whole kit i guess i will still buy it, but if i come across a dual solenoid b/c before hand i'll get that. Thanks again for the info.

Guest two.06l
I can see where your coming from. If i can find an apexi b/c with the pfc and h/c as a whole kit i guess i will still buy it, but if i come across a dual solenoid b/c before hand i'll get that. Thanks again for the info.

no worries,any probs with the setup pm me as am glad to help out. paul (staceys pit bitch)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
×
×
  • Create New...