Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-110839-0-62957200-1366844507_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-35590000-1366844543_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-78663200-1366844578_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-27144100-1366844615_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-56016900-1366844645_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-05086500-1366843721_thumb.jpgpost-110839-0-36635400-1366843766_thumb.jpg

ITEM: 1990 R32 GTR


LOCATION: Hornsby area


CONDITION: Very stock car. Good condition. Small amount of wear on drivers seat and part of the drivers door trim fabric has lift off.

Have found oil in the radiator and have decided to move on to other things.

146000km

No rego


PRICE: $8000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424100-for-sale-1990-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Um wait WHUT,

I live in Hornsby and I just paid 8K for a GTS-T.
When I could have had a GTR?


OMFG.

/Goodluck with the sale.

EDIT: Sorry for the spam.
But damn - this is a steal. Someone buy it and give it to me? pleeeease?

Edited by RBMunkie

Um wait WHUT,

I live in Hornsby and I just paid 8K for a GTS-T.

When I could have had a GTR?

OMFG.

/Goodluck with the sale.

Yes, with a potential dead coolant/oil warmer, blown head gasket, or cracked radiator.

Yes for 8K you could...

Good point.


But GTR.
LOL.

Drop in RB30, put the 26 head on it. She'll be right.
I could do all the mechanical work she needs myself without a single problem.


Now I just have to not spend half my consolidation loan money. :-(
So.
Tempting.

In parts she'd be worth more.

(oops.. shouldn't have said that should I?)

Exactly what I'm saying.

Fate deals a cruel hand she does.
But I love my little GTS-T.


Mate, I hope someone snaps it up quick for you, and I hope I see an R32 GTR rolling around in hornsby.
All the '33's are really p***ing me off!

If it's still here in a week (which I doubt muchly) I assume I will succumb to the muneyz and buy it.
So I'm pretty much a sure bet if you have it in a week.

Goodluck mate.

Has been out of rego since november but should pass inspection without problems. Starts, runs and drives fine. You could drive it 90mins home but I wouldn't as it may cause more damage plus it doesn't have rego.

RBMunkie I will call you today

Have seen the car in person guys. Very clean. Better than most and standard down to the exhaust which is amazing. Amazingly clean engine bay and to think that black was $7000 extra when new haha it's a steal. Good tyres too.

No rust anywhere I could see. New owner would be very happy.

Would have bought myself but funds were low to fix her up :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...