Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 R33 GTS-T Custom Metal Flake Paint, 225+rwkw, Tested 140db Stereo System. Genuine 12second car! I unfortunately have to sell due to an expanding family.

Has made 224.8rwkw as auto since then has had a manual conversion and upgraded fuel pump so should be at least 240rwkw!

Exterior: -Custom coarse metallic and anodised metal flake respray in gunmetal grey 6 months old has to be seen to be fully appreciated -M sport front and rear bar -Drift wing -Clear indicators side and bumper -Lenso op2 20inch wheels -rear debadged

Interior: -kenwood head unit Bluetooth 3 sets of RCAs inputs - trust chrome gear knob - autotechnica steering wheel - legend of sound stream 6.5inch coaxials in doors - soundstream 6x9inch - kicker cvr 12inch subwoofers in custom sub box - 4 channel fusion digital amplifier 4x150watt rms - mono block kicker 1000watt rms -1.5farad capacitor - soundstream 700cca car audio battery Very loud system, not many like it around.

Performance: - large front mount intercooler - pod filter - turbo smart dual stage boost controller with hi/lo boost switch in cabin - turbo smart blow off valve - nistune ecu - greddy adjustable cam gear - walbro 255lph fuel pump - turbo smart turbo timer - 3 inch turbo back exhaust - running 14psi boost on standard turbo so minimal lag!

Transmission: - r34 gtt 5 speed gearbox - braided clutch line - exedy heavy duty clutch

Has run a 13.4 as an auto and a 12.9 as a manual in the quarter mile. Is definitely capable of a mid 12!

Serviced every 5000 km with only quality products used. Will come with a few extra bits like a turbo smart boost gauge and some track wheels. This is a beautiful one of a kind car. Drives great as a daily and has plenty of power but not over the top. please no time wasters or joy riders. The stereo will now come included in the price as I need it gone due to my expanding family. I will consider any reasonable offers! Created on Carsales Mobile

post-89354-0-88459000-1366867123.jpg

post-89354-0-08577900-1366867130.jpg

post-89354-0-56232300-1366867141.jpg

post-89354-0-63788400-1366867148.jpg

post-89354-0-70433400-1366867157.jpg

post-89354-0-65594900-1366867179.jpg

post-89354-0-26906800-1366867185.jpg

post-89354-0-61366700-1366867215.jpg

post-89354-0-11253000-1366867221.jpg

post-89354-0-81301500-1366867228.jpg

post-89354-0-60550600-1366867237.jpg

post-89354-0-92460000-1366867244.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424120-r33-skyline-4-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...