Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My parking brake has recently become a bit sticky, as in when you pull the brake release, the pedal retracts very slowly and does not go the whole way by itself. I have to pull it up with my foot the rest of the way.

Ive looked under the dash and sprayed some WD on the moving mechanisms and that hasn't helped, which leads me to wonder if the problem is further down the cable.

Maybe unrelated, but I recently fitted some poly subframe collars, in which I had to lower the subframe which did put some tension on the connecting lines, like the parking brake for example. There was no difference to the parking brake directly afterwards, so maybe not related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424151-sticky-parking-brake/
Share on other sites

I cant help you but my RWD S1 auto had a similar problem. The parking brake would not release.. Could not seem to fix it so now it is disconnected.

Does anybody know how to fix?????????????????

I pulled off the rear rotors and blew all the dust away with some compressed air, then put some anti seize on where the cable comes enters.

Didn't make a difference, unfortunately.

Will have a look under the dash again to see if anything can be done there.

I think Ive ruled out any issues with the cable and rear brakes.

When the pedal sticks, there is still tension on the cable, so there doesnt appear to be resistance in the cable. The springs in the rear brakes seem to be retracting the cable fine.

This leaves the pedal mechanism.

I would really like to avoid having to remove it.

What is the shock absorber type device? Is that purely to soften the movement of the pedal? If so, that may be a problem area. Also the spring may have weakened.

  • 2 months later...

Well after having the pedal seize right up on me, I thought it was definitely going to be a removal job.

To avoid that, I gave the WD40 treatment another go. This time I had to lay down mats, newspaper and towels to stop the WD from getting onto the carpets. Using a bit of PVC tubing attached the can I was able to soak the pedal mechanism from every angle, completely soaking the area until the WD was running off onto the towels. Repeated a few times.

Well f**k me, it worked a treat. It freed the mechanism right up, the pedal now releases fully when you pull the brake release. My only concern is that I did wash off some grease on the pedal, so hopefully I haven't affected any lubrication points, but if I have to add some oil or grease in future its not too much a big deal.

Will report back if I actually ended up ruining the pedal, but so far so good. Beats having a stationary vehicle.

  • 3 weeks later...

I will be trying this on the weekend. Thanks for posting.

Figured out how to "manual" release the brake. Deep under the dash, need a fairly long flat head screwdriver there is a mechanism you can push in that releases the brake. Have had to do this more then once when other people have used the foot brake.

There could be something like that, but I couldn't see it. Its a very difficult area to work on even if you take off the lower plastic part of the dash. I still don't know how the mechanism actually holds and releases the tension on the cable. I thought spraying lubricants might be disastrous and the brake wouldn't hold at all. Thankfully that wasn't the case.

  • 4 years later...

Update: this band-aid fix lasted 4.5 years. LOL

Just had to do a reapplication of WD40 over the mechanism again, as it seems to be binding up again with cold weather. I'm still not sure how the release mechanism works, or what's causing it to stick. But considering how much work it is to remove it, I'm not taking it out. Unfortunately, this time the WD40 trick was less effective. I might have to do a few applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...