Sau Tech Night - Suspension

[t5iv]

I can assure you, from experience (at QR yesterday), plummetting down the straight and feeling your brakes not gripping the rotors is not a fun feeling.

[r34davE]

Hmmm I only find out if I'm working the night before... If I find out sooner; I'll RSVP

[HiveFleetAbyss]

I'll hopefully be getting my new rotors and installing probably 1 or 2 days before sprint day XD

[ARE31]

I can assure you, from experience (at QR yesterday), plummetting down the straight and feeling your brakes not gripping the rotors is not a fun feeling.

Nah the brakes worked but the pedal was sinking to the floor when hot. couple of cool down laps & they were sweet again.

[r34davE]

Nah the brakes worked but the pedal was sinking to the floor when hot. couple of cool down laps & they were sweet again.

Exactly the same problem I had... Looked it up and it's caused by the fluid boiling. 3 remedies are: Titanium shims behind the pads, Better brake fluid, braided lines.

Oh and to make matters worse, once it's boiled once, it's more likely to boil again

[Cadmoon]

Motul RBF 600...get it. I have never had brake fade on QR and I go HARD on all the straights every lap, no cooldowns for my baby

[Cadmoon]

I also have braided lines, but they don't help with cooling just give a better pedal feel as they don't expand under pressure.

[t5iv]

Mine issues were caused by pads coming to the end of their life. Rotors could be replaced as well.

Fluid was fine though.

[ARE31]

Yeah I have a new brake package here that was going to go on my R34 but I think I'm going to change the front knuckles to R34 on the R33 so I can run the bigger R34 GT-T brakes.

[r34davE]

Motul RBF 600...get it. I have never had brake fade on QR and I go HARD on all the straights every lap, no cooldowns for my baby

I also have braided lines, but they don't help with cooling just give a better pedal feel as they don't expand under pressure.

Apparently braided makes a bigger difference when the fluid is hot Have you tried the motul rbf660? Any idea if it's compatible with my car?

[Cadmoon]

Well heat makes rubber more pliable so it would expand more when the fluid is hot. The 600 and 660 are about the same, except the 660 boils about 20 deg. higher and costs about twice as much. Just use 600, more than enough as your pads will give out before you boil fluid (assuming they are just street pads).

[r34davE]

Well heat makes rubber more pliable so it would expand more when the fluid is hot. The 600 and 660 are about the same, except the 660 boils about 20 deg. higher and costs about twice as much. Just use 600, more than enough as your pads will give out before you boil fluid (assuming they are just street pads).

Hmmmm I can get 660 at a *reasonable* price... I don't wanna change it twice if I upgrade other components later... Argh... I dunno, I might be over-thinking this...

[Cadmoon]

If you are planing braided lines then change the fluid then, you will lose quite a lot changing the lines. Pads and rotors can be done without touching the fluid.

[t5iv]

You lose some fluid doing pads.

[Cadmoon]

Only because you suck it out of the master cylinder, pads don't require any bleeding.

[HiveFleetAbyss]

Rebecca isn't a member. Is she allowed to tag along so she's not stuck at home bored?

[t5iv]

Yeah. Member's guest is fine.

[mattis96]

I can't make this and I needed to cause of work, so can you guys do me a favour please. Can you ask what settings to run for 50% street 50% track.

Castor

Front camber

Rear camber

Rear toe

What ever else that can be adjusted please on an alignment place. Thanks.

[Cadmoon]

If you're keen, rear traction arms. But then you will be forking out $500+ for a proper alignment.

[mattis96]

Yes I will have rear traction arms as well. And wow didn't think it would be that much