Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was under the car fitting front swaybar bushes over the weekend and I took the undertray off to get to them and got 2 small shocks - oil and coolant!

I knew about the oil actually, as Id seen the telltale drops under my car space. Whats the deal with that leak anyway? I used a new washer and did it up tight enough when I last changed the oil, why does it still leak? How can I avoid this next oil change?

More importantly though, is the coolant leak. It seemed fresh enough and while I couldnt see where exactly it was leaking from it had covered what I believe is the power steering pump in a bit of coolant. I checked and my coolant res level and its near the min, so keeping an eye on it. FYI that pic i took is under the turbo side of the engine with the the sump to one corner. Also I replaced 6 water hoses 2 years ago, plus the radiator ones, so this has me a little confused. Thoughts of what part of the engine this leak might originate or why?

Thanks

post-15457-0-65875100-1367237235_thumb.jpg

Edited by ausdrift
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424370-2-leaks-oil-and-coolant/
Share on other sites

Thats weird if its AC fluid, just because the colour is really that of coolant, but it is nowhere near any coolant lines I know of, so certainly a possibility. I thoughts AC was a gassed system though?

The washer used is simply one from bunnings that was the same size as the one that came with the A/M magnet plug I bought. maybe Ill just get it from the car parts shop next time

The correct washers are not the flat type, they're a crush washer. See what your local Nissan dealer wants for one or buy a 10 pack from ebay...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160648840409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

When the A/C system is recharged, an ultra violet die is added to help find leaks. The dye is fluorescent yellow/green and when gas weeps out it takes the oil/dye with it giving the desired affect. It can often look like a coolant stain/leak.

Edited by White GTS-T

Good to know, about washers, will have to investigate proper ones next time.

And with the dye weaping from the AC compressor, what exactly might be the reason for the leak and/or what would need to be replaced/fixed? Anyone had this and know what it might cost? Dang, I just paid for an AC regas before summer too...

Thanks for the info too White GTS-T

It looks as though it's leaking from the compressor housing, where the compressor 'head' bolts to the housing. It may just be leaking from the suction/discharge fitting o-rings on top of the compressor and leaking down. But more than likely it's the internal housing o-ring. Best bet is to take it to a Fridgy to confirm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...