R32 Gtr Oil Pump / Sensor Reading

[i hate rav 4's]

Hey there,

I have a r32 GTR and was wondering what the oil pressure guage on the dash should read? It seems to fluctuate from near 4 on cold start, to almost zero when freeway cruising. It doesn't seem right to me. I have searched but was chasing some more recent info - especially on places to get it done.

I have looked at aftermarket oil pumps - n1 around $250 - $300, JUN, NISMO - $1300. I don't want to get big power out of the motor so would a n1 be enough? I don't fancy spending a grand if theres no need for it.

My last question would be, has anyone recently (as mechanics leave etc..) had an oil pump changed, as i've heard the front diff needs to come out. Any places you'd recommend?

Cheers,

Any help is appreciated.

[djr81]

Failure of the oil pressure sender unit is common. Check and/or replace that before you do anything else.

[trick]

Probably is the pressure sender, I've never heard of an oil pump to let you know it's about to fail. They just break

I used a N1 oil pump with remax gear set and I'm hauling close to 400 awkw. The gear set is around $450 delivered plus

N1 pump, it should all cost around $550,

you will need to put a restrictor in the head though, and it's motor out job

Good luck

[Dohmar]

Probably is the pressure sender, I've never heard of an oil pump to let you know it's about to fail. They just break

I used a N1 oil pump with remax gear set and I'm hauling close to 400 awkw. The gear set is around $450 delivered plus

N1 pump, it should all cost around $550,

you will need to put a restrictor in the head though, and it's motor out job

Good luck

If you're not going for power, a standard OEM pump would be better than the standard N1 due to the N1s having weak gears - however if you get the remax/reinik/nitto gears to replace it (as suggested above) then you'll be fine - they are extremely strong gears. One thing that is worth checking is where the crank meets the oil pump - if you have an early r32 you'll want to buy a crank collar to prevent drive failure as the early cranks have that area machined too small (its cheap and worth doing if you already have the oil pump off).

Personally, I'd go the route suggested above, get the N1 housing (higher pressure relief valve to OEM) and put the stronger aftermarket gears in it. It all comes down to how much you're prepared to spend.

-D

[djr81]

 

If you're not going for power, a standard OEM pump would be better than the standard N1 due to the N1s having weak gears - however if you get the remax/reinik/nitto gears to replace it (as suggested above) then you'll be fine - they are extremely strong gears. One thing that is worth checking is where the crank meets the oil pump - if you have an early r32 you'll want to buy a crank collar to prevent drive failure as the early cranks have that area machined too small (its cheap and worth doing if you already have the oil pump off).

Personally, I'd go the route suggested above, get the N1 housing (higher pressure relief valve to OEM) and put the stronger aftermarket gears in it. It all comes down to how much you're prepared to spend.

-D

 

If there is nothing wrong with the pump pressure just leave the thing alone.

[Dohmar]

   

If there is nothing wrong with the pump pressure just leave the thing alone.

Its not a matter of modification, its the default on some pumps -

Below is stolen from http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/227714-rb26-crank-in-rb25/

An early R32GTR "stock" oil pump? The N1 pump has the wide drive flange, the early R32GTR oil pump doesn't, they have the narrow drive flange. The N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher oil pressure relief valve.

A late R32GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange,but the N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

An R33GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange, but the N1 oil pump also has a different rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

An R33GTR V SPec "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange and the same rotor configuration, but the N1 oil pump has the higher pressure relief valve

An R34GTR "stock" oil pump? They both have the wide drive flange, the same rotor configuration and the higher pressure relief valve

Hope that helps

-D

[Matty 31]

tbh, i wouldnt be trusting the stock cluster gauge, they're fairly inaccurate

get a good aftermarket oil pressure gauge and see what it reads then

[i hate rav 4's]

Cheers, that certainly is helpful. I like the idea of actually checking out the reading before getting carried away and just throwing money at it.