Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah he showed me coz the reason I wanted to get it looked at was because my knock sensor on the dc controller was hitting 60 the other day so that's the main reason I wanted to check the tune he showed me where it was leaning out and hel fix it all up two of my other mates had a power run today and told them that there tunes were both spot on

60 knock isn't that high, RB knock sensors reads all sorts of bullshit LOL... if it's 60 on full load up a steep hill etc.. I wouldn't worry too much

What about 90 knock on full boost at about 6000rpm? Not sure why its happening, I cant find my maps on my computer to look at it now. Not sure if spend money or just pull timing my self.

That needs to be checked...

Pull timing and boost out of it

friend of mine took 3 different rb30 heads down there to get them rebuilt and prepped for an upgraded set of cams they stated and i quote

"the heads are cracked beyond repair"

at which point they refused to return them stating the damaged heads had been disposed of.

the last head that was taken to them was a known good head and the second only had minor wear if there were and cracks they could have been welded i am unsure of the condition of the first

WTF? please tell me you got something back from them?

What about 90 knock on full boost at about 6000rpm? Not sure why its happening, I cant find my maps on my computer to look at it now. Not sure if spend money or just pull timing my self.

do a map trace on the controller and see what cell it is landing on, then map that back to the ignition table.. sometimes your car loads into cells that never get loaded up on dynos..... most tuners will trim off 5 degrees on heavy load cells that are not in use just in case you hit them, but there are some tuners (1 from my experience) that disregard that and up a hill you fall into those cells and pow.. 100+ knock..

I'm going to setup my car soon and self tune it, I trust no tuner out there that would do a good tune and not rip you off. There are great tuners out there, but fuark me.. their prices are just crazy. Considering most of them just re use a map from a car with similar mods and setup the injectors & latency to suit then just spent time trimming the ignition and injection tables and make $1500 from you.

Fair enough I understand it's a business and it's intellectual property..

I just guess from 2 bad experiences with "paying" tuners to tune something I learnt myself in over a year.

I'm going to setup my car soon and self tune it, I trust no tuner out there that would do a good tune and not rip you off. There are great tuners out there, but fuark me.. their prices are just crazy. Considering most of them just re use a map from a car with similar mods and setup the injectors & latency to suit then just spent time trimming the ignition and injection tables and make $1500 from you.

Fair enough I understand it's a business and it's intellectual property..

I just guess from 2 bad experiences with "paying" tuners to tune something I learnt myself in over a year.

+1 well said

Ive got everything I need to tune my car, its just the knowledge and the location to do it. How do you determine what is the best fuel map for your car? The timing part, I assume you'd just start low and go a little more, checking knock in each cell but its not always about raising timing until it knocks. If I knew enough, I'd tune my self but for now, its risky. I can spend my time editing the tune I have to make it a little safer, but starting from scratch is a different story for me :( Wish I had my own private track.

WTF? please tell me you got something back from them?

friend has since dropped the issue and has refused to chase advan this was his first experience with modifying a car and it has turned him sour on the whole idea

he has since slid his project into a garage and bought a commodore

Alright, everyone will have different experiences with different workshops, and hence when these kinds of threads pop up we deliberately don't let them continue.

Let me remind EVERYONE that it is against the forum rules to post negative feedback against ANY business or entity on the forums here. Threats and attempts have been made to pursue litigation against the owner of the forum for defamatory posts, and we cannot allow that to happen.

The forums are provided to you to use free of charge, but it does cost money to keep it going. A successful litigation against the owner leads to loss of funds towards running the forums. Loss of funds leads to no more forum... Geddit?

Please read THIS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/228238-read-this-whos-the-best-tunerworkshopresprayerdetaileretc/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...