Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i have this kit ready to install but i havent found hardly any reviews for performance or reliability. Anyone have any evidence if these kits are way to go with your power FC ecu? Just want to make sure it's the right move before going into the trouble.

If not whats the most compatible for your PFC?

Cheers

The good thing is they're very simple to install and all info is shown on the hand commander.

Bad things, they're a very ordinary boost controller, electronics are dated by today's offerings.

They will struggle to maintain steady boost once you get over about 1.2 bar, you need to work on the actuator preload as well to get the best results.

And for my money they're overpriced. I have one for the 32. (in the shed)

They aren't that bad. Mine holds boost alright. Running 18psi

It just takes a bit to setup and then learns for a few runs. Might not be the best but its good if you already have one and don't want any more controllers in the car

I have one running 1.3 to 1.5 bar and i havnt had a problem with it not holding boost.

Took a bit to set up but I recommend them. Especially that you already have it. It's good to just use your hand controller to monitor boost too. Very accurate information I think

Can you increase or decrease the boost via the hand controller?

Planning on getting the pfc and boost controller installed and tuned at the same time when I do all the other turbo and injector mods..so I figured once its done I won't have to do anything to it except drive and enjoy

Keep your reviews coming through, interesting reading....my tuner was the one who got me worried about the pfc controller kit, he doesn't recommended them but that's just one opinion I say....

Sure can. Has 4 different points you can set a max boost setting. Can scroll over to any one of the 4 to reach that boost setting. Also can tweak the settings by increasing or decreasing the solenoid pulse time to fine tune it

all at your hand

Chiizzi, I run the boost kit with my PowerFC controlling an extensively modified twin turbo setup. I've used it since 2005, so I think I can speak with some authority about long term reliability.

It has never had a problem controlling boost to 29psi on the dyno, and I daily drive at 24psi without issue. It has excellent overboost protection and it learns the boost curve if you follow the learning procedure (from memory, 4th or higher gear runs from 1500rpm to 4000rpm - probably best done on the dyno depending on your power level).

It also avoids the need for yet another box. Yes, you can adjust the boost level on the fly with the hand controller. However, I'm not running internal wastegates.

I'm also surprised you, as a native user of this forum since 2007, didn't find this thread in your search - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/229928-dyno-graphs-comparing-pfc-boost-controll-vs-blitz-idiii/

I have to agree with other posters that there are "better" boost controllers out there, for the *sole* reason that the PFC doesn't apply adjustable closed loop control ("gain") to promote earlier spool. However, this is really just a function of wastegate spring preload, or, in the case of external gates, running appropriate spring pressures. I chose to do the latter (1.2Bar springs) and have had no issues. This fact is also referenced in the linked thread.

Your tuner's opinion is important but he might be the same sort of person telling me that I'd have crap driveability and a dodgy power tune on my setup with a PowerFC, and that I should switch for a (insert ECU du jour here). I'd counter with 530+rwkW for multiple runs, 470rwkW daily driven, pump fuel and WMI, perfect cold and hot starts and excellent driveability out of this "dinosaur" ECU :whistling:

If you want something reliable, easy to set up and neat - I'd say go for it.

Edited by shombre

Im using the pfc boost controller, running 21psi on an internally gated hks2835pros with no problems...

As others have said its one less box, its all on the hand controller. Works fine, i never bother changing the boost setting i use my foot even though i have different boost settings to choose from

better off with another controller like blitz dsbc or greddy profec b unless the physical boost control hardware is going to be spot on (base spring rates, preload etc).

Dont get me wrong the PFC one works well but is not flash when there is any deficiency physically... there are a few tricks in the software but it just doesn't have enough logic to match a stand alone unit.

Any small physical deficiency in the boost control system cannot be rectified with PFC logic whereas a standalone will generally pull it back into check.

i used the pfc kit for a while and it worked pretty well

one less box, good setup, good overboost protection

if you are having issues be mindful of how much boost you want to run and the actuator spring rate

ie dont run a 5psi wastegate spring and expect the pfc boost kit (or any elec controller) to let you run 22psi

choose a reasonable sized spring in the actuator and then bleed a few psi extra via a controller

  • 3 weeks later...

Awesome comments everyone! I'm torn haha!

I'll give the PFC kit a go first and there are any dramas I'll look into something else.

What are the GFB ones like? It's either something like that or a turbosmart eboost st...

  • 2 years later...

Old thread dig

I have a gtt power fc in my c34 stagea. Now I have the factory wiring for the boost solenoid near the afm, and has power at that socket. But, the gtt has a 5 pin pug from the ecu for the boost control harness. I only have a 3 wire harness with a 5 pin plug. There is also 12v at the pin for the solenoid on the ecu socket too. Now do I use the factory wiring, or, do I run wiring to the plug for the ecu and do it that way?

Edited by fmlycar

Use the factory wiring for solenoid

The extra two pins won't drive the solenoid, been there done that

3 wire/ 5 pin harness is for the boost sensor only, the two other pins aren't used on the rb25 neo

Edited by chiksluvit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
×
×
  • Create New...