Jump to content
SAU Community

Nitrogen Leaking From Tyres?


2FA54U
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone had a problem with nitrogen leaking or anything I had mine done a month ago and I had a warning light come up so I've had them filled again and it hasn't even been a week and my lights come on again. What do you's think it would be? I hope it's not the tyres they are pretty much new not even 5000kms on them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's one tyre, a nail or something.

If all tyres are doing it....average temp drop due to winter?, as even nitrogen expands and contracts too due to temperature, just not as much as the usual plain 'air'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will be a slow leak. I had the same problem with one of my tyres. If you have runflats it will usually mean a whole new tyre depending on the where the damage is and if the tyre place will be willing to repair it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jason, that sounds strange.. What pressures are you running them Cold ? I run mine around 32PSI cold, and i have noticed all the tyres have lost approximately 1psi over the past 7 weeks. (Could be colder climate).. But to lose pressures to the point of Low Pressure on the Dash indicator after a week doesnt sound right, Have you manually checked the tyre pressures to see if the Pressure Monitoring system was right there is a low pressure problem ? If tyre pressures checked via Gauge is OK, you may need the TPMS sensors reset, which i believe is a something you need the Dealer to do ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to get it checked tomorrow and when I got my first warning light on I checked had all the tyres checked and most were around 29 and 28 then one of them we 26 and they were pumped to 32psi... I recently had them set to 31 just last week so it will be interesting to see if its the same tyre which was low last time... Also lets say it was a tyre that's damaged am I better off replacing the 2 or just the one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jason, unless the tyres are very new, you should always replace Tyres in pairs (Ie: Front Pair or Rear Pair ).. If you dont , you may end up with different grip profiles with a new and worn tyre from left to right, and you also have differing rolling circumferences which may put further strain on the Diffs.

But you should get the Dealer to really check whats going on with the Tyre thats going down before making any changes.. (It could be as simple as a faulty valve)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I thought so it says in the manual to replace all 4 if any are damaged for even wear I just bought 2 rears and it cost me $1260 delivered to my door not bad but pretty dear for the damage of one screw :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jason, didnt see that in the Manual.. Hey 2 new Rears for $1260 is a great deal, did you go for the Dunlop OEM's that were on the car when you got? Where did you get them for $1260 a rear pair ? Tirerack ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah I have the bridgestones on mine and I looked at getting the dunlops but old mate says they are heaps dearer and thought I may as well stick to the same brand I ordered them from Tempe Tyres the other place quoted me just under $900 each so about $1700 for the pair so I'm saving at least $500. Next time I need tyres I will probably get a full set of the new bridgestones the R2's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unless there's something particular about the Greddy manifold's injector holes that I'm not aware of, those injetcors look to be totally wrong. They would absolutely want to be spaced up to get those long snouts out of the runner. Which, I think, is not usually the way that that problem is solved. I think the problem is solved by using the correct injectors, which would be much more like what Andrew posted.
    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • EMJ33 or EJM33 - west end
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
×
×
  • Create New...