Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a brand new in the box Haltech Sport 2000, RacePak IQ3 display, long flying lead universal harness, coolant temperature sensor, air temp sensor, wideband 02 sensor, MAP sensor, and boost control solenoid. This system can be used for practically any engine made and is very user friendly to the installer and tuner. The sensors included are from Haltach, however most factory sensors can be calibrated quite easily to communicate with the ECU, such as oil pressure, crank/cam sensors, throttle position, as well as any additional temp and pressure sensors you want to add. LS coils are actually what Haltach sells on their website, which can also be used on practically any engine as well. Another great thing about the Haltech system is that the RacePak IQ3 digital dash plugs right into the side and outputs all sensor information. This essentially eliminates the need to purchase and wire up a bunch of senders and gauges. The flying lead harness is a complete universal wiring harness, complete with fuses, relays, looming, shielding, color coding, labeling, esc. A brief look at the wiring installation diagram, and you can see how easy they have made it for us. This system is new in the box, and I would prefer to sell as a complete system. Please contact me with any questions. Located in New Jersey, willing to ship. Thank you


$2700


Manufacture information



Wiring Diagram



7c09953f.jpg


0c2edfa0.jpg


11e6bb4b.jpg

reason for sale? and is it the logger dash? thanks...

Sorry for the delayed response. I am selling because I will be putting off my project for awhile. No, this is not a logger IQ3. PM me with any other questions

hey mate interested in just the dash if you willing to split and your location

Sorry, but I am not ready quite yet to split it up. I have recieved a good deal of interest in the complete system, so I hope to keep it all together. However, if things change in the near future, I will send you a message right away. Thanks

RacePak IQ3------SOLD
Haltech air temp sensor--------SOLD
Haltech coolant temp sensor---------SOLD
Haltech Boost Control solenoid-------SOLD
Haltech Wideband O2-----------SOLD

Haltech Sport 2000 w/ long flying lead harness--$1850

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...