Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I’m currently looking for a 32 gtr to use as a track only car, mainly for drags and go to whoa

The thing is i only have access to a 1/8mile track

So i want to set the car up as much as possible for this, so huge horsepower and high top end isn’t really needed im guessing? Instead acceleration and midrange is more important.

Im going to start buying parts for when i find the right car.

The car will be completly stripped and running semi slicks

Im thinking the following parts

  • -9s or -5s??
  • Tomei Poncams Type B
  • Tomei cam gears
  • 1000cc injectors
  • Walbro e85 fuel pump
  • Power fc
  • Profec II boost controller

Any other ideas??

If you are doing all the head / cam work then go Garrett -5's.

But being only a 1/8 mile track... You might be better off with Garrett -9's...

How much power you want to push?

And are you only going to run 1/8 mile tracks?

To be honest im not getting caught up in the i want X amount of power.

Im looking at the quickest 1/8th mile times possiable.

Yer i will only be doing 1/8th mile for a few years yet.

Also unsure of suspension yet

To be honest im not getting caught up in the i want X amount of power.

Im looking at the quickest 1/8th mile times possiable.

Yer i will only be doing 1/8th mile for a few years yet.

In addition to you mods, just go with a 3" or 3.5" exhaust.

Also unsure of suspension yet

Nur33 runs with a full Ikeya Formula Suspension setup, with his RH8 / RH9 R32 GTR Drag car.

I think any decent full adjustable Japanese / German etc brand will do you.

Just got to set it up right.

Thanks mate

re exhaust, im thinking to go no exhust, find a decent dump that sperates for a long distance the just exit out the side. havent found a dump yet tho

Yer im going to ask the guy with RH8 what he recommends, of course im not thinking as big a build as him but cant hurt to ask.

Its really turbos im a bit up in the air about

Edited by Adz2332

Thanks mate

re exhaust, im thinking to go no exhust, find a decent dump that sperates for a long distance the just exit out the side. havent found a dump yet tho

Yeah, just make custom twin side pipes.

img00089200905191725.jpg

img00092200905201200.jpg

img00094200905201205.jpg

Yer im going to ask the guy with RH8 what he recommends, of course im not thinking as big a build as him but cant hurt to ask.

Its really turbos im a bit up in the air about

Your not racing far... 200 metres...

You'd be better off with a full response turbo setup.

Go Garrett -7's or stick to the Garrett -9's just for more top end when needed.

The owner is from GTR UK forum.

http://imageshack.us/g/39/img00084200905191125.jpg/

the reason for doing it its cos i always wanted to do it....and for weight saving

the main reason though was weight saving cos the exhaust the car had was very heavy
now..the x-thing is there for the a/f ratio sensor for tuning...to get the gases for both sides

Not too sure.

Diametre wise, it would at least be a 3".

Or if you can find a Kakimoto Racing Hyper Ful Mega N1 Dual Exhaust and just use the down and front pipes and custom to exit to the side.

Image1.jpg

Image2.jpg

For a full drag car why u even considering twins?

6262, 4.3 diff ratios, factory suspension high and soft, good ECU with launch control, and some bullshit good tyres!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • To clarify what I posted above, I though you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
    • Son, in this country, that is a piece of Gyprock. f**king drywall. FFS! I also like the autocorrect of trailer to tablet. I was reading it and thing, "what the hell drugs is he on?" Then the photo made it clear enough.
    • SO whats the deal with this issue? I've read a heap of posts from the infinity owners in the US having full engine swaps done under warranty. Most claims are done on earlier cars than 2019 but I'm sure I've come across claims of 2020 models also having this issue. I like the 400r and Q50Red/S but can't fathom dumping close to 50k on a car with terminal issues!!! 
    • The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.
×
×
  • Create New...