Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day all,

i thought i'd see what some of the knowledgable people on this forum thought of porting and polishing heads *looks at sydneykid* :rant:

The reason for this is a mate of mine with an NA Z32 300zx is looking for a bit more guts out of his engine and came across the idea of getting this done.

for the record his mods are: exhaust (headers + cat-back), filter, ecu re-tune.

For the proting itself, what do people reccommend? ie changing valve sizes and complete job, or just a bit of a port? keep in mind this is regarding a non-turbo car...

and what kind of power gains are to be expected on a car putting about 150rwkw at the moment?

For the price one would pay is porting worth it? how much is a good price keeping in mind that its a V6 and there is 2 x heads... I think he had a quote of about 1200 but that included changing to bigger valves i think.

when i heard this i thought a cheaper and also effective idea might be to shave the head for better compression? your thoughts? power increases?

sorry for the abundance of questions but i'd love to hear a bit from everyone as this is something that not many consider (generally better mode for turbo cars bang-for-your-buck wise) and i know its a more intricate process on NA cars...

i also read page 76 in HIP #37 which as porting an SR20DE and that was heaps of help.

cheers,

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42495-thoughts-on-portpolishing-heads/
Share on other sites

Iv heard that the VG30DE responds very we'll to this kind of thing.

When my brother took his 300zx TT down to his mechanic, they had one in there that they had just finished on the bosses broject car. He went for a spin in it, and I quote "Pulls much much harder, almost the feeling of the twin turbo but not quite"

Howver I'm not to sure what lengths they went to, or what was involved. All i know is that it was a port and polish.

This place is Nissport in Moorabin btw.

Yep it was an NA and as far as I know it only had a pod and full exhaust.

I'm not to sure on price overall, but I know they charge about $50 labour for usual work.

If you have a problem with your Z, then this is the place to go. Joe is a genius, and his very quick, a lot of people leave happy customers (just ask on aus300zx.com.au). The other guys there know there nissans to. Nobody wanted to touch my GTS-X, these guys didnt have a problem with it :)

Wouldnt hurt to maybe for you 2 ask them about it if your interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...