Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I was curious as to know what the quickest car that is somewhat reliable for 10k max or under would be?

I've got a R34 GTT running 10 psi currently, but it simply isn't as quick as it looks lol.

I'm sure this has been somewhat covered before, but im looking for current prices and looking for reliability also, as in not too old. 96+?

Thanks heaps

spend 2 or 3k on your car and make it reasonably quick?

+1

You aren't going to be getting anything much quicker and still be reliable for under 10k especially if you want it to be newer than 96. If all you want is straight line speed than an LS1 Commodore with NOS will do the job and be in budget but personally I would probably stick with the R34 and save up for a bigger turbo (GT35 etc) with all the supporting mods.

Edited by *LOACH*

i learned the sad and long way that, in all seriousness, stockish non gtr skylines are pretty slow. Ofcourse they have big potential if modded, but i just dont have the money to let my car's net worth be greater than 10k.

commodore brings the fuel issue.

I guess the truth is there really isn't a stockish quick car for the 10k mark?

I was hoping along the lines of the startlet turbo, or something that might not look so great but is fast. e.g evo 5 for cheap or starlet GT, i dunno lol.

gt starlet is far from fast. even when highly modded they aren't that fast. they'll be fun, but not that fast. you have to remember that they are only a 15 second car in standard form. with lots of mods you might get into the low 13's, or maybe high 12's, but it will start to drive like shit.

having said that, i'd like a gt starlet as a daily.

Wind the boost up to 14 PSI, that should get you 200kw..

and it will also achieve the "semi reliable" aspect nicely :)

(I'm referring to how the stock ceramic turbos tend to drop turbine wheels into the cat when you boost them too hard)

thanks for all the help guys.

yeah it was always a thought that i should stick with my skyline and work it a bit more, but i guess i just cant afford to put more money into it. and I'm not looking to boost it over the 10psi limit for the stock turbo that seems to hold safely.

with the VX, fuel comes into the equation and im basically looking for a daily.

How come noone is recommending a EVO 5-6? If i manage to find one for that price mark are they not a lot quicker than skylines anyways?

because the immanence costs on them suck. I did mention for a daily, tuned LS1 is as economical as a 6, especially in a 6 speed. Think 9-12l/100 depending on the type of driving.

Would be my pick for a non POS to drive daily (that or a Silvia lol)

How come noone is recommending a EVO 5-6? If i manage to find one for that price mark are they not a lot quicker than skylines anyways?

Evos are great cars when new but if you are only looking to spend about 10k it may not be very reliable especially if you, or one of the posssibly many previous owners, have modded it.

so pretty much the options are, stick with the skyline or buy a commodore/falcon.

obviously won't be going with the commodore or falcon lol. but yeah, sorta answered my question then i guess. Pretty much i can't get anything quicker than what i have for 10k.

If you're after a daily, maybe consider an Aristo: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/toyota-aristo-1995-14126206?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=5&eapi=2&__N=1246%201252%201247%201282%204294962861%204294954592%201216&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=%7ePrice

Being a 2JZ, you'd be able to make it go very fast with few dollars. And it won't blow up in the process.

EDIT: the above link is just meant to be an example of the car. I have no idea if that particular car is worth buying or not.

Edited by ras1983

Wind the boost up to 14 PSI, that should get you 200kw..

You would want to hope so, My 34 GTT made 213.9RWKW on only 12psi thanks to the boys at tunehouse. That was over a year ago and haven't had a single problem at all, although i dont run it on 12psi all the time.

Edited by BeastVS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...