Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a bit of a read but worth it.

The Truth About Forged Performance (they are in America)

This is going to be a long winded review, but my experience spans over a 22 month timeframe and I am still dealing with the repairs as I write this. I feel it is important to notate all of the details in order to properly warn my fellow GT-R owners. I would never want anyone to have to go through what I have experienced over the last couple of years.

http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/85083-forged-performance-the-truth/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424982-forged-performance-failure/
Share on other sites

Its a sad story, and its frustrating when workshops do bad work, but how could he let it get that bad?

Even without hindsight, alarm bells are ringing when the customer doesnt show any knowledge of the parts he wants to put on. performance OR pricing wise... yet keeps throwing money at it after they claim it needs a new engine and purchased the wrong turbo.

nothing new, and most of those threads often get deleted because they are paid sponsors

all those US shops are competing ferociously with each other, often turning up their dynos to 11 and pushing the boundaries because the man with the biggest numbers on the forum always sells the most

customer builds are getting fewer, margins are becoming tighter, and this is the result

Agreed Wardski, Cant believe that extremely "Bodgy" work underneath the car in those photos. I agree with the guys above, How the hell did he let it get to $250K worth of poor work before blowing the whistle.. Crikeys, he could have bought 2 additional US 2014 GTR's for that sort of money. Mike.

  • Like 1

nothing new, and most of those threads often get deleted because they are paid sponsors

all those US shops are competing ferociously with each other, often turning up their dynos to 11 and pushing the boundaries because the man with the biggest numbers on the forum always sells the most

customer builds are getting fewer, margins are becoming tighter, and this is the result

Margins have nothing to do with it, that build is unsafe and wreaks of a "that'll do" mindset. Building cars or wiping his arse his attitude would be the same.

People like that absolutely shit me and unfortunately I work with a few of them.

Damnnnnnn..........there is some dodgy work performed there. I also read those two posts about 350ZTT and the G37 getting some work at Forged - dodgy as...reminds me of a famous in the 90's shop here in Melb that fitted some dodgy Chinese turbo to my mates car instead of the Garrett turbo he paid for. Luckily he took the heat shields off to check it out and it wasn't the correct hardware. Their excuse was that they made a mistake.. Gotta be careful everywhere.

Margins have nothing to do with it, that build is unsafe and wreaks of a "that'll do" mindset. Building cars or wiping his arse his attitude would be the same.

People like that absolutely shit me and unfortunately I work with a few of them.

Margins determine working capital and ultimately the skill set you can afford to hire

That workmanship looks like it was picked up outside a home depot

Thread is locked, shop has agreed to work out a resolution, so everything is now forgotten and the game rolls on

  • Like 1

When there is a shit fight everyone gets covered in shit. Forged will lose bucketloads because of this.

Margins determine working capital and ultimately the skill set you can afford to hire

That workmanship looks like it was picked up outside a home depot

Thread is locked, shop has agreed to work out a resolution, so everything is now forgotten and the game rolls on

The work on that car was horrible whoch is totally unacceptable.

But I know all to well what it's like dealing with a customer who changed their mind 100 times before the end of a project and it does cause massive issues with time frames and $$$$ to complete the job.

The whole problem stems from FP taking too long to deliver the initial job, allowing the owner to consider other options along the way...

TBH, the owner changing his mind isn't a good enough excuse for even the worst welding job known to man. I could have done a better job with two hands tied behind my back and my a55 cheeks holding the mig.

:P

thats what i thought, works unacceptable, but the customers a pain in the ass aswell, i got sick of him changing his mind

just reading it

cheers

darren

Edited by Wardski
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way.   Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible.  I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
×
×
  • Create New...