Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Threads like this are good for the people who are looking for a cage as it actually opens up their eyes as to what your paying for.

Not to take anything away from other cage builders, there is some very good ones out there. But there is also a lot of these commercial places banging out ill fitting "cams" cages and using material that passes yet is not the greatest quality.

I now specialise in the high end of the market. Just completing an 11k r34 cage and now beginning a 10k commodore cage.

For that sort of money you'd hit the roof if it was cheap material and mig welded.

Other places can't make $250/hr doing those cages so they stick to the banged up half cages and do a lot of them.

Can I ask about the harness bar location? Is it "normal" for the harness bar to be attached between the rear legs, or between the main hoop uprights? I understood that the shorter the shoulder straps the better - less stretch (I am no expert, just wanting to clarify:).

What about "stays" for the harness straps, on the harness bar? I've seen rod bent to a U shape & welded to the harness bar so the straps can't slide very far in either direction - is this usual?

Can I ask about the harness bar location? Is it "normal" for the harness bar to be attached between the rear legs, or between the main hoop uprights? I understood that the shorter the shoulder straps the better - less stretch (I am no expert, just wanting to clarify:).

What about "stays" for the harness straps, on the harness bar? I've seen rod bent to a U shape & welded to the harness bar so the straps can't slide very far in either direction - is this usual?

There are different schools of thoughts. I wanted mine between the the rear legs. WRC cars and other race cars have gone full circle. First short, then long and they generally seem to be short again these days.

The reasoning I use is that in a big hit you can generate some massive Gs. If the harness is short then there is no slack and your organs/body cop the Gs. If they are long like mine then the belts can actually stretch a few cms which gives an elastic style response and in tests has been shown to reduce the amount of Gs the body absorbs.

Of course the flip side is with longer harnesses in a big hit that distorts the car you can more easily see a situation where the cage moves relative to the seat and harnesses slacken and you are on for an interesting ride.

Swings and round abouts

Harness shoulder straps have to be kept short (and close together at the mounting points) for HANS devices, so it makes sense to put the harness bar in the main hoop if building a new cage.

Edited by hrd-hr30

I'm gonna have a semi rant here because I think the above shows some of what's wrong with forums sometimes. I'll use 2pees example but I'm directing this at anyone who does this sort of thing.

2pee, Brad has been very generous with his time in this thread, not to mention looking after me and another member on pricing for 2 cages. Beyond that, he's got a lot of very satisfied customers so in reality he doesn't really need to defend himself and I'm glad he edited his post and took out the 3rd line from his reply.

I'm not having a go at you, but I would genuinely ask, what was the point of that post other than to try and discredit the work? If you were genuinely concerned about the safety of the cage, you could've contacted Roy or Brad directly and said something like "Hey mate, just saw some pics of your cage, I noticed there's a bit of an undercut on one of the welds in this pic, It might be worth getting it looked at just to make sure it's safe."

Swap roles for a moment, if you'd done that weld on a cage, would you be happy with it or would you do the whole thing again, my guess is you would think it was good enough and leave it be, so try and keep that in mind when posting.

I often see comments like yours thrown around and for apparently no good reason than to try and point out flaws (and to be honest, for all we know you could be an apprentice at TAFE who has just learned what an undercut is and how to identify one - I know I had to google it before posting lol).

There's absolutely nothing wrong with honest discussion, but I think it should be phrased in a way that is as non-combative and confrontational as possible, because it encourages everyone to get involved and share opinions without worrying about having to defend themselves, their reputation, their work etc.

Members will vote with their wallets so I think the quality of Brad's work has already been well established in that regard.

Anyway, just my random thoughts, take it with a grain of salt. Chances are you didn't mean anything by it but for whatever reason I've chosen this moment to have a bit of a forum rant :)

There is a slight undercut at that point, however, it is also a thin part of the metal of the diagonal at that point, so the end of the cut will have collapsed slightly when the torch was applied to that area to a point that the thickness of the metal was then of a thickness to take the inputted energy, and was then welded correctly. When I was doing my certificate courses that slight undercutting was acceptable, as it usually showed a greater weld penetration (due to the correct energy being applied) than a weld that have been turned down to retain the non undercut look.

If that weld was cut open and tested, you would find that the penetration is equal through the whole circumference of the weld , and that is the ideal condition as then there are no variances in the strength.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...