Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Correct. They slip together and have two bolts holding them.

Its a recognised method of attaching legs and perfectly fine to do but a fully welded joint is best.

The way AGI do theirs is a better design with the 44mm tube and 38mm tube slid inside it. The fence post clamp together joins are rubbish.

So what's your equivalent product then?

I was considering that cage with the two diagonals (assuming it adds head protection for both occupants in a roll). Then welding in some base plates to bolt too. That's 880 delivered and painted.

What would your cage, painted and freighted cost and what work would I have to do when it gets here.

I wouldn't put both diagonals in the hoop.

One in the hoop and one in the rear legs with a harness bar in the main hoop as well.

Main hoop

Two rear legs

Harness bar

Hoop diagonal

Rear leg diagonal

12.9 high tensile bolts

Plates to be welded to body.

TIG welded (ER70s-2 filler rod)

German CDS material.

Ill do that cage for $770 plus the deliver cost which would probably be $140-$150.

When you get it you'll need to remove the seats and centre console

Remove the seat belts and rear trim etc.

Weld in the base plates for the main hoop

Drill holes for the rear leg plates

Bolt the cage to the base plates and then reinstall the seats, harness and trim etc.

OK cool, thanks for your help so far.

So to confirm, that cage comes as one piece fully welded and the only bolts are the ones used to fix it to the welded plates the car (are the plates meant to be welded for the backstays as well?).

Also, do you do/know what the best option is for lowering the seat.

My helmet sits too close to the roof at the moment.

I can see ways to get it lower but wondered if you offered something off the shelf.

Also, I assume it's most beneficial to TIG weld the plates in or is MIG sufficient for that weld?


Edited by ActionDan

Further to my questions above, another member has contacted me explaining that he'd like a cage too so with that in mind, is there the possibility of a discount on the cage or freight if we order 2? Would they both fit on one pallet etc?

He's currently waiting for pics from Roy, but if you have any now is a good time to throw some up.

No off the shelf solutions for seats I'm afraid.

Mig welding plates to the floor is the only way. TIG welding to a floor pan is very difficult and ugly.

I'm sure two cages could go on one pallet yes.

I don't actually have photos of troys cage. I do that many I don't normally take photos anymore.

I think there may be some in his build thread though.

Does this look like it?

gallery_20349_4009_25906.jpg

I demand $50 from anyone that posts pics of my car :)

Brad must have taken that pic as it doesnt look like one of mine.

It is SCHMICK! I am not saying that because its my car. I am not saying that because Risking is on the forum. I had the BD cage and was happy with it generally for the 2 or so years I had it. It isnt a question of better or worse etc. I got what I asked for from BD. If I had of articulated my requirements better I would have paid more and probably got what I was after but was mostly scared of rendering the back seat completely useless for storage of tyres and bags on a trip to the track

When I knew what I really wanted Brad was able to give it to me. I can still fit two 17" rims in the back seat. two in the passenger seat and fuel in the boot. When a recliner seat is in it goes a fair way back for some zzzzz when I am doing the Melb-Syd drive at night. Its all I could ask for since my thing is only a club car and needs to be driven on a daily basis

What do people think of something like this harness wise?



http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10413&PSO=245&PSID=9193133&PSV=Primary&CDO=



I thought at least 5pt for the anti submarine belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...