Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day everyone,
I've been up ALL night long mind f**king myself as to HOW TO INSTALL an OIL CATCH CAN.
I understand that it's a relatively simple job, just time consuming at best. HOWEVER, I am absolutely and entirely LOST as to what happens with the Air intake part of things (does the catch can need its own air filter) and even as to whether I'm going to HAVE TO modify somewhere along my air intake to allow a clean flowing air or "vacuum" as many people have mentioned. WHICH THEN leads to me wondering will my Air intake sensor be stuffed up if I cut holes or put filters in my Air box.
As you can see, I am totally MUDDLED and have spent the last 4 hours searching and searching for a STEP BY STEP process for installing a Catch can in a N/A RB30 Sedan...
If anyone could make simple

  • step
  • by
  • step

Instructions, from begging to start and explain to me as to whether I even NEED to put an air filter/air vacuum for a catch can to work?
Pictures and VERY simple instructions/terms if at all possible would mean the absolute WORLD.

Thanks a million!
CatchCan.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425078-installing-r31-na-rb30-catch-can/
Share on other sites

Just take off existing breather pipe that goes from rocker to plenum, and add catch can inbetween. simples.

Or better yet, dont worry about it and sell it.

Edited by superben
  • Like 1

Just take off existing breather pipe that goes from rocker to plenum, and add catch can inbetween. simples.

Or better yet, dont worry about it and sell it.

So everything I'm reading in relation to the air intake / pvc sensor etc, is to mainly do with Turbo'd vehicles, and doesn't apply to me?

Just as simple and straight forward as in this video which I've just stumbled on?:

^^^

He talks about air intake as well and that "You'll know what to do when you get to that part", WHAT if anything do I need to do in regards to the intake/''that part'' of the installation etc?

Or is it purely as he states; just so he can access what he's doing more easily?

Dude, it is so easy.... One end of can attaced to rocker cover , other to plenum. this photo shows the hose that is replaced, the catch can hoses go here. when you take that hose off, attach the catch can hoses to the two spots. that is where the blowby that might have oil mist in it gets sucked into the engine, so that is where the catch can has to go to catch it! If you are still confused, I can't help you !post-107339-0-39394500-1368360071_thumb.jpg

Cheers a million guys, you've made it really as simple as it should've been from the word "go".
Obviously it was due to Turbo'd vehicles/installs I was reading and getting confused, as there seems to be just a little more work involved when installing a catch can on a Turbo apposed to a N/A / Standard RB30.
Just to completely clarify, I've circled what I have to remove and place the catch can 'in line' between these two fittings and instead use the catch cans braided hoses.


The circled hoses are the ones I'll be removing when installing the catch can, Yes?
p31r_enginebay_2008-2049166958.jpg
IF this is NOT correct, can someone PLEASE circle and upload on the same image what I have to remove?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...