R34 Build/diary

[B-rice]

Been procastinating writing up a dairy/build thread for my 34 uni just got me a bit of me, should be a good way to keep track of the progress. Anyway I imported the car from Jap land September last year 71ks.

Came with
3.5" catback exhaust

a pod filter.(also with original box and snorkel)

Nismo/Altia side skirts and bumper lip

Body was in mint condition with very minor dents

Anyway im aiming for a best possible response for street while having a decent Hp with reliability. I know its just a matter of maybe slapping the usual stuff from a bit of research, but im going to try out a different setup and see how i go with it.

So the first mod i purchased was a pair of coilovers, the 13years old coilovers had packed in you could hear a crunch noises every time you went over a hump or pothole. Wanted to take the car to wakefield so this had to be fixed before I could experience the car. With the hardness set to 17/32 front and 14/32 rears the car felt a lot more stable around and handles better around corners.

Few weeks ago i got a set of Koya DriftTeks, 18 x 9.5 et 25F 22R, would have love the Nismo LM'S but being a student on a budget pushed me towards the Koyas. I had to run minor stretch to fit them with a guard roll, they fit flush with about 5mm poke.

[B-rice]

Not really updates but mid January i installed a Intercooler and Nistune. Then a few weeks after the Nistune install i noticed i had made a mistake, the extra $1000 for a plug in didn't seem reasonable at the time but i was wrong.I was led to the Nistune because I had been quoted $2600 for any other plug in like Vipec/Link/Haltech etc. The reason behind the sudden change is because i read a thread by SS8_Gohan( E85/98 Flex-Fuel Mission Complete! Thanks To Chequered Tuning) noticed that i couldn't have a flex fuel setup which would mean fill whatever you like between the tune whilst also being able to run the rare E85, that seems to be a little more forgiving for those chasing decent numbers.

Running 12PSI,Intercooler,Nistune
Red line = before green line = after

Car currently has 90000kms on it so i thought i might aswell do a 100k service and took out the old water pump,belt and idlers. Seemed like a easy task so i thought should give it a crack. After everything was done I noticed the engine had a funny whinny noise coming from the front of the engine. It was because i had bought the blue Gates timing belts which apparently need little to no tension due to their stiffness so I took it off and did it again. Second time the noise was slightly less but still not the best and also had a coolant leak from the water pump so I took it off, third time lucky the noise was gone and no leaks, took the car for a drive and everything was all good.

[timmy_89]

Nice thread. Good to see another 'base' Silver R34 GTT like myself
What's your next plans?

[B-rice]

Im starting off with the fuel system get myself a Nismo pump in a few days probably the GTT version because its just a plug in but the GTT Nismo is a 4.1l/min over the GTR Nismo which is a 4.6l/min.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Ah good stuff mate! Glad you took the time to make a thread Will enjoy watching

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hey mate nice car. I just put a gates belt onto my 25 Neo but I didn't realise it needed so little tension?

Below is a pic of my Timing Belt, is this about the right amount of tension? Feel free to remove this if it's incorrect as I don't want to give anyone else false info!

[B-rice]

Hey mate nice car. I just put a gates belt onto my 25 Neo but I didn't realise it needed so little tension?

Below is a pic of my Timing Belt, is this about the right amount of tension? Feel free to remove this if it's incorrect as I don't want to give anyone else false info!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1368681615.189816.jpg

The twist looks about right but its hard to judge because you could have finger guns like ronnie colemas . The best way i could tell you is to put the allen key that adjusts the tensioner and turn it about 30 - 35 clockwise from its original position before you turn it. If this doesnt work you may have to put the belt on and lined up with the marks tensioned. Start the engine for 3-8secs and listen to it (this is all whilst the car is in neutral). If it does whine undo the tension a bit and repeat. Your timing marks need to be lined up with the belt before you start this.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/421055-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement/

have a look here maybe i explained it better in this DIY. Some belts will whine a bit but its shouldnt be too much that you can hear it over your engine when it does whine.

[B-rice]

So my fuel pump arrived today, and its massive maybe coz ive never seen a fuel pump before. So I a few days will install it using direct power feed.

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a640/Bryce_B-rice_Shoshore/IMAG0309_zps69d89c55.jpg

[B-rice]

So haven't been working much on the car lately but i managed to run into a set of Lmgt4s with tyres on the rears. Also it happened to be the offset released for the non GTR Nissans with lesser aggresive offset. Will be working on my fuel system next and running a direct feed rewire for my pump when i get time.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Wheels look good!

[B-rice]

exiting the carpark with a humungus speed bump my exhaust scraped pretty bad. Now i have a metal like sound coming when im on boost. It only comes at WOT too. Heard its a blow gasket from the manifold to the turbo but i hope its after or atleast not a cracked manifold.

[B-rice]

Just discovered that i have a missing nut on the turbo to manifold flange. It looms as if it was never put on, the thread it quite consistent.

And the gasket is gone near the missing nut. So I stuffed the crack with exhaust cement. The noise has gone but if i give it the beans you have hear it just slightly

Edited July 24, 2013 by B-rice

[iruvyouskyrine]

Cheap to replace the gasket so mark that one as an easy fix

On my 32 when i purchased it, it had only 7 out of the 12 studs holding the exhaust manifold to the block and i never had a leak hahaha

[B-rice]

yh i got the whole gasket kit from Kudos. will be changing it one weekend when im free i did manage to seal the crack with manifold putty and its almost gone.

[B-rice]

Managed to do a boost leak test using Hanaldos technique, no leaks on the intake side were found. It was a funny moment when the dip stick shot out because I pressurized the system a bit too much. While i was away the bits to the fuel system arrived.

Ended up swapping the Nismo pumps reason being that the GTR pump flows at 4.6l/min whereas the GTT flows at 4.1l/min. The extra cc would probably help me to not run out of fuel lol. I found out that the GTR pumps do not come with a cradle, tried modifying the stock cradle but due to the size of the pump this was not possible and the buzz would be insane. For a few bucks managed to get a seller on ebay to separate the cradle from the pump and this made the installation of the new pump a 30min job straight plug and play.

When i get time will be slapping in the injectors and wiring up the flex fuel sensor then take it for a tune. My fuel system should be enough for the killerwasps im chasing. Got the ASNU1100cc, been stalking the GTR threads where they have been praised, for $750 with plug in adapters thought it was quite a good deal. Will be getting a tune though and see how they fair.

[B-rice]

Got a new action cam from Jaycar decent frame rate too. Just need to find a better place to place it on the aerodynamic skyline to avoid the wind noise.

Edited August 5, 2013 by B-rice

[B-rice]

Hi Cubes, glad to see you finally did the wiring upgrade, it's a very worthwhile investment in time and not a lot of money.

You are suffering from "excessive size pump syndrome", because the 044 flows a bit over 360 litres per hour at 13.8 volts. This means every minute 6 litres of fuel is being pumped to the engine. But if it is idling or crawling along in traffic using say 1/10 of litre per minute, 5.9 litres goes back to the tank every minute. If you have say 20 litres in the tank (bit over a 1/4 on the guage), that means the 20 litres takes a bit over 3 minutes for all of it to go to the engine and back.

While it is in the engine bay it gets heated up, then it goes around again and gets heated some more. After a 15 minute slow drive with little or no airflow, the engine bay gets up around 100 degrees and so does the fuel. I have seen fuel boil in the tank ..............

To be continued

Sorry for the delay in completing this post, we had an engine to finish building.

To get around this problem we use one of these in the race cars;

For around $100 they are a good investment if you are regularly going to the track. Especially in summer, sitting in the que waiting for a run with a low fuel level in the tank (no sense carrying excessive weight). Note that these are not designed for high pressure (fuel injection) so I use them in between the low pressure (lift) pump and the swirl tank. On a car with no swirl tank I have seen one used on the return from the engine to the tank, so that it's not under pressure either. Never use one between the high pressure fuel pump and the engine, they will not handle the pressure.

On the road GTR's the FPCM takes care of that for you, it reduces the flow (voltage to the pump) according to engine load. On a GTST you have to make up something similar. I have done this in the past by using a Jaycar kit #KC5377 (~$30), connecting it its input to the AFM input pin on the ECU plug.

At low air flows (say up to 2.5 volts) it drops the fuel pump voltage down via a resistor, which keeps the fuel flow slow. Once the airflow gets over 2.5 volts the fuel pump gets its full dose of 13.8 volts. I have also seen this sytem used when you have 2 fuel pumps and only one is needed at low engine load, the second pump kicks in when necessary at higher engine loads.

This is the circuit (courtesy of Performance Electronics for Cars, get one from Jaycar, for $20 its worth having one as a reference);

Note that the kit only has a 5 amp relay on the board, so you need to use a larger (30 amp minimum) relay in the circuit for the larger aftermarket fuel pumps.

Hope that helps

cheers

looking at what SK wrote ive been thinking about how this can be done without using the airflow meters.With my upgraded Nismo pump pumping 4.7l/min, I foresee the future of having boiling fuel problems. Specially when this car is also used for light daily duties.

I have a Vipec that is yet to be installed, it will be using a MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor,not sure if i can also use the MAP as the input to controlling the pump.

So far ive found the aeromotive controller, uses the RPM as a control method.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/

I could set the RPM change at 3800 which means i can cruise on the highway at low RPMS but when it is time to play the voltage kicks up to the full voltage. Then the pump screams,

I t also has a bypass switch so i can turn on the high voltage full time when im on the track.

My only concern is that some DC pump are designed to run at 12vdc however giving them less voltage could actually damage them quicker.

[Hanaldo]

Would be better to set up a fuel cooler if you are worried about fuel temperatures.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Yep, mine is setup with a fuel cooler and also has staged pumps to keep the fuel temp down

[B-rice]

Would be better to set up a fuel cooler if you are worried about fuel temperatures.

Yep, mine is setup with a fuel cooler and also has staged pumps to keep the fuel temp down

How effective are the fuel coolers though,are they like intercoolers which are about 85-90% effective. I guess it also depends with where theyre mounted too.