Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Build/diary


Recommended Posts

Why do you need a 100% effective heat exchanger? Your fuel doesn't need to be ambient air temperature, you just want to keep it reasonable. A cooler will do the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How effective are the fuel coolers though,are they like intercoolers which are about 85-90% effective. I guess it also depends with where theyre mounted too.

Check my build thread for pics (probably back 10-15 pages) mine is setup like larger version of the Z-tune one (I think that's what Bobby said) but it's mounted under the spare wheel in a small diffuser type setup... Pretty sexy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finallly got to install my flex fuel sensor, its all hooked up and everything but i havent tuned the car for E85. So at the moment im just finishing off my fuel system. All i have to do is upgrade the old fuel lines so they wont corrode, when i do the full transition to E85. Currently my fuel temps are lingering around 20-36 degrees during light commute duties. Not sure if i wasted money with the fuel cooler. Its use might come into play during the summer season.

Managed to fab up a simple bracket to hold the flex fuel sensor next to the fuse.Had to remove the brake cylinder stopper as im still in the process of making spacers that will go inbetween the BCS and the brake for the sensor.

IMAG0626_zps4c3520a6.jpg

IMAG0619_zpsc2983726.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should be running outer space quite soon when I fit a new plenum, hopefully not too much.

Another update, got my wheels back from powdercoating. Gotta say they look brilliant.The best part is that I only spent $40 a wheel to get them painted.

IMAG0635_zpsf8c555fc.jpg

IMAG0634_zpsddce4eab.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

been trying to remove the turbo so that i can put on new gasket to stop the scream while on boost. The worst part about this is taking out the lower nuts. Its one b*tch of a job. Anyone have any ideas or techniques of how to remove it. Was thinking of grinding off a bit of the spanner for it to fit in. I would like to know how the japs fitted it in the factory because just putting on the cement on the leak was a challenging task

IMAG0643_zps8852d74f.jpg

IMAG0641_zps1cb74b11.jpg

IMAG0639_zpsbf5f24f6.jpg

Also if i did remove the oil and water lines on the turbo. Does that mean that I have to bleed the coolant system again and probably do an oil change too. Im contemplating doing this, or trying to fit the gasket without removing the hard lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's easy enough to do with the right tools. But the bottom nuts are much easier to do from underneath.

As for removing the lines, yes you will have to bleed the coolant but you shouldn't need to do an oil change. But should be easy enough to change the gasket without removing the lines.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hanaldo always to the rescue, thanks.I managed to remove the bottom ones by going underneath. I noticed whoever owned it before didnt do them up properly, the metal tabs where the only thing holding them from getting undone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problem mate, I remember how frustrating a job it was the first time I did it. It does get easier! I can have the whole hot side off in about an hour these days haha.

Was the metal tab on properly? They are prone to undoing themselves over time, so they may have been done up but just loosened up a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey man, I got them done by mobile fabrications. If you can sand blast them yourself it will be $40 per wheel but they can do the blasting plus painting for $88. From the results they did on mine i think they know their shit. They even had experience with forged wheels because you could wreck them if overheated.

Im getting my Tune done by Autotech. But have also been considering taking it to ultimate tunes. ESP said Vipecs cannot do flex tune (it was a diplomatic way off saying he cant do it). Im learning towards Autotech because he has some extensive experience with Skylines. Depends what you have also and the quality of work your after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol. I started the car 40mins ago to set the gasket sealant and voila you come up with an idea i never thought of. My next turbo change will be a topmount if the permalock i put on these doesn't come out ill just rip it all out with the manifold hehe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey man, I got them done by mobile fabrications. If you can sand blast them yourself it will be $40 per wheel but they can do the blasting plus painting for $88. From the results they did on mine i think they know their shit. They even had experience with forged wheels because you could wreck them if overheated.

Im getting my Tune done by Autotech. But have also been considering taking it to ultimate tunes. ESP said Vipecs cannot do flex tune (it was a diplomatic way off saying he cant do it). Im learning towards Autotech because he has some extensive experience with Skylines. Depends what you have also and the quality of work your after.

Ah sweet mate, yeah the rims look great.

I would be interested to see what you reckon of how it runs on the flex fuel and how difficult/expensive it is to tune. Do they have to tune for 98 and E85 and then several points in between? I was not aware of tuners in Canberra that had extensive previous experience in tuning flex fuel and had not heard of anyone else from Canberra getting their skyline tuned for flex fuel. Based on that and the fact that I already had my power fc on the car, mine just runs a power fc and caltex E flex all the time. It has been that way for 6 months at 320 rwkw and I am pretty happy, but it just means if I ever want to go to wakefield or something I would have to load the car up with Jerry cans so I would have fuel to get home. So on my next round of mods I may change the ECU. So let us know how you go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ed said he would tune E10,E20,30...up to E90 and 98.

Should be taking it for a tune in the next coming weeks. Just have to install the injectors but im still waiting on a rail that will fit 14mm injectors and also fit under the stock plenum. So far Plazmaman fuel rail seems like it has a chance of fitting under there. Also have to find out the correct diameter o-rings for the injector on the intake manifold. Will update you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...