Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just been thinking of using multiple throttle GTR plenum. However Im not sure if the runners for a R34 and 33 are the same. I could do away with cutting the runners by machining a adapter plate using RB26 N 25 gaskets as templates. However using an adapter would mean that i have to cut and re weld the water outleet so it doesnt crush the VCT solenoid. Using 34 runners would be good because i still have the same injector sitting angle. The downside is that i cant find any 34 lower runners. So it brings the question, are the 33 and 34 runners the same especially on the way injectors sit and fuel rail mounts. From looking at a few pics they dont look the same but when you look at the gaskets, they have the same part number.

Are the manifold o rings also 14mm


IMAG0376.jpg

Do the 33 injectors sit the same way as 34 (o -rings and sitting angle) but atleast i know i can top put on top feed injectors on the 33 intake manifold given that i change the rail aswell. I just dont want to downgrade from an intake plenum which was better.

I dropped by Jaycar and saw a cheap set of 6000K HID bulbs, thought it would be good to restore the xenon lights so i got to task.Had to take my front bumper off to access the wires that were cut during compliance to stop the ballasts from supply energy to the light plug.

It was just a matter of connecting wires back together

IMAG0683_zps8a4dc282.jpg

IMAG0682_zpsa16e6ea0.jpg

But then after hours of trying to figure out what was wrong with the LHS light i swapped the ballasts and the light still worked indicating the supply cable within the light is Kaput. Not sure if i really want to open the inside of the light as its the one i use. Might just get a connector plug it onto the ballast and feed it through the side of the housing to the light

Yeh man, it's easy. Take off the 5 spring clips on the housing, and undo the two little screws on the park-light side. Remove all the plastic bits that you can, tuck all the wiring inside the housing, and pre-heat oven to 100 degrees, then headlight in for 8 minutes or so. Keep an eye on it in the oven and nothing will go wrong. Then use a screw driver to pry the lens away from the housing. If you need to pull too hard then put it back in the oven for another couple of minutes. Just do it slowly and you'll be sweet.

To put it back together, just reverse the process :thumbsup:

Whilst im waiting for the tuner to get back, I got a hi flow turbo for a steal price, as im not willing to stay at 180kw while i source out options for the turbo ill use. So the hi flow will be the super sub while I find a good contender to use. Have gone through so many compressor maps I can probably tell you the name of the turbo without even looking :P.

Im tempted to bolt up the hi flow but without tune it will probably run really bad. As for the injectors if i manage to loan a Nistune consult cable ill be able to change the injector size and latency so i can still drive it (My Daily) to the tuners otherwise ill just resort to getting it towed to the tuner.

IMAG0708_zps15fb0c98.jpg

IMAG0714_zpsd366afb8.jpg

IMAG0716_zps8d421b3c.jpg

meant as in drive it for a few weeks till the tuner is back, however I wasnt sure about driving it offboost on the day i take the car.Its certainly something i will experiment doing while i have the stocker but with the hills in my area. It will be quite interesting.

  • 1 month later...

Thats good so you just gotta transfer your stuff from the 33.Except for a few things that wont work with Neos hopefully wont be much.

Very nice man good to see you a doing a thread on the build... Thumbs up!!

I see you learnt the hard way about spending a little extra on stand alone ecu's huh? Good work keep it up

Very nice man good to see you a doing a thread on the build... Thumbs up!!

I see you learnt the hard way about spending a little extra on stand alone ecu's huh? Good work keep it up

I donno if I will be building mine like yours but chasing around the same figure.If it pops I'll get another stockie and repeat and transfer. If I had known from the start I would have got a standalone only a few extra dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
    • Temu raptor, lol. At least the owner isn't your typical ranger danger lot
×
×
  • Create New...