Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

So i thought it was about time i put a build thread up as such on my R32 drift car.

I purchased the vehicle here in Adelaide it was defected for boost controller and to loud.The what i believe now was the smart decision i didnt go about getting it off would of ended me up with no licence.

I picked it up for a bit under $5000 in 2011 had a solid rb20 5 spd in it with

heavy duty clutch

greedy front mount

3" straight through with 2.5" twin drift pipes

Turbo timer

straight all round with no dent was great example.

post-77561-0-36356000-1368583774_thumb.jpg

First time out on the track i went out as is was impressed with how it went but of course it needed coil overs very boat like.

So went out again then had trouble with a single pegging diff and handbrake failing.

Fixed these issue's with some project mu handbrake shoes and got the diff shimmed up.

Car was sweet and very reliable at this stage but decided it could do with some suspension work so over the next couple pracs i purchased all adjustable arms and hd sway bars.

post-77561-0-65427800-1368584193_thumb.jpg

I had the car to the stage were it done what u wanted turned in nice and had got ridden of my understeer issue.

the next stage the car went through was i purchased a HG hiflow turbo and got it tuned down at Jaustech

post-77561-0-38014200-1368584239_thumb.jpg

Although i was now happy with the power i was getting annoyed with how laggy it was also bye this time the clutch had now started slipping.

So the gearbox came off and well it was off for a good 6 months i then came a cross a mate with a rb25 neo forsale for a very reasonable price with 72 though ks i couldnt not take this offer up.

The search came allong to find a gearbox i quickly sourced a low k gearbox out of a r34 a clutch was sourced to suit from npc a sprung button good for 350rwkw.car was then wired up for the neo thanks to simon .Off it went to jaustech for another tune this time with the neo ecu nisstuned

This setup i was impressed with the lag was no longer there it was now responsive and gd to drive.

post-77561-0-02790100-1368584291_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425292-r32-drift-car-build/
Share on other sites

The dillemas began

3 pracs in none of which the car lasted throughout them due to braking the remaining stock suspension bits coil pack troubles and, then the big downer.

Headed out to the private day car was loving life running awesome was out for about 20 mins come back in for new set of tyres went over it done the basic checks got to the oil it milky shit head gaskets gone that would be right just my luck day over already.

Got the head off with no noticeable spots ok leakage on the head gasket so off it went to Rhemacs for a check over and get it faced,Received a call back from them saying it has corroded through in a spot which is un repairable just what i wanted to hear NOT!!

Search began for a new head bam simon m comes to the rescue again another neo head with some type b poncams

Hmm only a small turbo for the cams,the search began for some more goodies purchased

Genuine Greedy manifold

vh45 throttlebody

Sard 850cc injectors

Genuine Greedy twin feed fuel rail

Sard fuel reg

This had all the intake side sorted thanks to christian/coropral

post-77561-0-62227200-1368682524_thumb.jpg

A NZ steampipe manifold was purchased with a 48mm gate pipe

Tiall 48mm gate

Blitz twin solenoid ebc

I had custom dump pipe made up and some alloy cooler piping made up for flipped cooler.

post-77561-0-30313600-1368682598_thumb.jpg

Its now all together so off it went to Jaustech yet again for another tune and some minor wiring they comp tested with the new head and head gasket 0 comp in cyl 3 yep yet again more troubles this time it clicked ti what happened it was turned of accidently for like a millisecond with out the timing belt on.

Head comes of again of to Rhemacs bent valves so sourced new valves seats had to be redone cleaned it all up a bit with new guides and all that jazz so there went 1500 bucks plus another 1000 odd in taking head off and back on new steel head gasket as well this time with better quality gaskets allround.

Skip all the heart ache and empty wallets the cars finished with the new setup 311rwkw @ 19,5 left it with F all timing as i was sik of forking out cash try to keep it reliable.

post-77561-0-61660700-1368682703_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-04408000-1368682812_thumb.jpg

The next couple pracs left me with the thought the car is now lacking a couple thing enough grip to handle the power and i wanted more lock

so the rear cradle was swapped out for a s14 item this improved sideways traction quite alot.

post-77561-0-39698600-1368685561_thumb.jpg

Then i installed some jpp modded knuckles and some longer thicker tie rod ends to suit with some 25mm extended lcas aswell.

post-77561-0-69548200-1368685635_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-30237000-1368685776_thumb.jpg

During this period ive also installed a full cams approved bolt in cage and genuine nardi wheel and short shifter

post-77561-0-04291800-1368686079_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-48897800-1368686261_thumb.jpg

This will bring up everyone up to current

About 2 pracs in with this setup i noticed the response of this setup went out the window like boost around the 5k mark.I checked over everything and came up with nothing so i went about taking the turbo off and to my horror the rear wheel looks like its been eaten up.

Without the cash to fix it i got to the turbo with some side cutters and got rid of all the daggy bits left on it it was driven like this for probably 4 prac days until this happend out on the skid pan at matsuri more failures.

post-77561-0-07227200-1368689591_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-51172800-1368689614_thumb.jpg

So matsuri what a fun day well for first 3 hrs car was running on song was really enjoying the day smashed out 4 new pairs of achillies and neutons already went out to finish of me pair of 265 achillies 123s on the skid pan.The adrenalin was pumping using 3rd and baking hard with some friends and famialy watching on i was going hard at it 5k-to limiter for about 3 mins.On last lap before i was going to come in i heard a horrendous bang car come to a stop wouldn't turn over and wouldn't roll start, so clutch went in and was pushed down the line up and left till later in the day while i watched everyone else driving wast going to let it bring me day down.

got back to the car later in the day to load it up noticed oil around the front of the engine at this time im thinking the oil pump has failed.

post-77561-0-07981300-1368689684_thumb.jpg

Before the pull down of the motor i thought at the least it would need new bearings and oil pump. Well nope couldnt be that easy not for me

.post-77561-0-47150600-1368689706_thumb.jpg

The head came of only to find the rod sitting on top of the piston in the cyl some lovely 6mm deep scores in the bore smashed valves heavly smashed valve seats bits of piston ring stuck in the valves, and also some small score in me poncams .So also when we got the sump of we were left with a nice mix of smashed up parts

post-77561-0-58045400-1368689772_thumb.jpg

post-77561-0-87933400-1368689831_thumb.jpg

So now the newest conclusion is that all that time on limiter with the n1 oil pump it has filled the head with oil and left the bottom end dry.

Ive now purchased another 25 neo low k motor out of a awd Stagea The plan on this one is to go with a lewis head drain and gated sump and some oil restrictors to hopefully fix my past oiling issues another metal HG and some new head studs will tune up on e85 and 20 pound

Will update soon cheers for reading

Engine bay has been scrubed and clean to remove all the oil n dust which had collected over it when the motor went.

Got ideas will be doing a power steering cooler probably similar to my oil cooler mount it under the intercooler.

Also some thoughts on changing from spitfires to a ls2 coilpack setup.

Aswell of maybe prettying up my surge tank setup to alloy hard line and going twin 044 instead of my current 1 044 and 1 040.

Sadly money is bit of issue at the current moment but trying to get it back out there asap

... if cash is tight, only spend on things that will make you go faster or handle better or increase safety.

splitfires are more than up to the task, maybe look at the coilpack loom or power supply/earth to the loom.

that's BS most of the time.... often people convince them self that they're better because they're cheaper. I'd say they are a stronger spark, but not by much and alot of fing around. stick with the splifires untill there is an issue.

i've always had splitfires in all of my rb's... 250-400+ rwkw never had spark issues that were coil related.

clean and insulate the boots, re-gap to .8mm, clean your contacts, run better earth and power to the loom.

just trying to emphasis purchasing something that you'll get your money's worth out of.

The biggest weak link for any rb drifting is going to be oil pump gears....

My suggestions for oil control would be to either buy a nitto oil pump or remax gears in an N1 housing. I wouldn't bother with the oil return in the back of the head, especially with a later rb25. Buy rb26 cam baffles and rocker covers. Go conservative with oil restrictors depending what pump you use. Any extra capacity and pick up baffling is good.

An accusump isn't 'emergency' oiling, it's an oil pressure accumulator. It'll maintain pressure even if the pickup gets starved momentarily. I rate them for a drift car or anything changing direction quickly.

Cheers

J.

  • 4 months later...

Well its been awhile since i have posted in here there has been minimal progress with the car over the last 5 months. But it is all go again Will be getting budget built setup for the start of next year eg no metal hg and cams wont be going back in will b stock motor with all my boltons and e85 with low boost 17-18 ish just to get it on track start of next year.

  • 9 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...