Retrieving Dropped Parts From Tight Spaces :(

[AnDreeZy]

Hey, was working in my 32r today, and stupidly I dropped a bolt down my front dimister air vent which required me to remove the front vents up really close to the front widescreen to get the bolt out.

I removed the Plastic vent and 3 of the 4 stupid metal clips fell down the vent thing,

Anyone have any tricks into getting these clips out so they don't rattle around when I drive?

Possibly without removing the whole dash LOL.

Ohh and will overfilled(touches the cap prior to first startup) attessa fluid cause the 4wd light I turn on and the 4wd system to stick in 2wd mode? My attessa fluid is like fully topped up LoL

[Humpty Dumpty]

Flexible headed magnet.... Ask Daniel for one

[AnDreeZy]

Yea tried that, the magnet seems to just hold onto it and while pulling out, it drops back down,
got pissed off and gave up lol.

too cold for the day will try again tomorrow.

[Sinista32]

Vacuum

Over filled will not cause 2wd.

[luke gtr]

you can get a flexible claw grabber.

use combined with magnet.

[Humpty Dumpty]

Vacuum

Hahahhaha Never thought of that... Will keep that in mind

[AnDreeZy]

HAHAAHA, vaccum!

will probably give my vents a good cleaning aswell

awww, was hoping it was the problem, would it atleast make the 4wd light stay on constantly?
i havent driven hard enough for the torque gauge move or my 4wd is gone i can still hear the pump start and stop when pressurized though...

[Sinista32]

Checked fuses ?

G Sensor ok ?

Torque gauge should move on rapid acceleration. You don't need to reach high speed, but you do need to accelerate quickly.

Just a quick take off should move it to '10'

I have a working G if you want to eliminate that.

Normally lack of fluid is the general cause but that's obviously not your problem

If it is none of the above then it starts getting complicated.

[AnDreeZy]

Fuse in engine bay and cabin is all good and G sensor looks to be good (clear on the tube thing)

i can hear the attessa pump run for a few seconds after the fuel pump, and i can also hear the pump slowing down as it gets pressurized and the pressure switch activates.

I might try bleeding attessa since I have the extra fluid in there anyways,

Previous owner had it towed to get brakes fixed after they seized, would that have damaged attessa if it was towed incorrectly? Theoretically shouldn't since the 32 runs rwd most the time anyways?

[Sinista32]

Will search around for more info.

I know there is a few threads on here and I know I found a diagram of the system I posted on SAU somewhere

Found it on GTROC I think.

Rims/tyre sizes same all way round?

Check ABS sensors in the front - may have been affected when brakes seized.

[RosieR34]

Hahahhaha Never thought of that... Will keep that in mind

You will probably kill anything electrical in your engine bay (ECU or whatever). Vacuums produce CRAZY amount of static electricity which kills computer in a heartbeat - I'm guessing cars have computers of sort in them as well, so I wouldn't be risking it lol

[AnDreeZy]

Will search around for more info.

I know there is a few threads on here and I know I found a diagram of the system I posted on SAU somewhere

Found it on GTROC I think.

Rims/tyre sizes same all way round?

Check ABS sensors in the front - may have been affected when brakes seized.

Yea ive been searching around for a fix, but majority of the guys who fix them just have low attessa fluid...

my 4WD light is on as soon as i put the key into th "ON" position and stays like that until its off.

Wheels are same 235/45/17 maxxis tyres all round wth same offset and width.

is there something i should look for specifically when checking the ABS sensor?

[Sinista32]

>>>> DIY vid I've seen on the internet. Not the same vehicle but the same process/location.

I found one post on SAU that mentioned over filling can be an issue. I'm not so sure but may as well take it down to the correct level.

Would definitely bleed too.

[AnDreeZy]

>>>> DIY vid I've seen on the internet. Not the same vehicle but the same process/location.

I found one post on SAU that mentioned over filling can be an issue. I'm not so sure but may as well take it down to the correct level.

Would definitely bleed too.

Thanks! but is there any signs of it actually being the problem physically? shouldnt pulling a code from the LED be a good diagnosis aswell

yea, should do the more obvious and easy fixes before the hard ones

[Sinista32]

Over the top -> "You will probably kill anything electrical in your engine bay (ECU or whatever). Vacuums produce CRAZY amount of static electricity which kills computer in a heartbeat - I'm guessing cars have computers of sort in them as well, so I wouldn't be risking it"

Yes - static electricity on exposed motherboard - not good.

ECU is in the passenger kick panel. Issue is up on top of the dash.

People Vacuum their car carpets frequently and close to the ECU - no issues

ECU and electrical's are covered and earthed. Not only that there is a kick panel as well. Vacuum electricals are incased in unit..

All wiring under the dash is also covered.

Use a good Vacuum with that crevice attachment (or modify to suit). Clips will suck out very easy.

Bolt/nut not so sure but the claw was a good idea.

I used my Vacuum to suck the dust of the Fan in my laptop - no issue.

However, if you do crack open a PC it's a good idea to use an earthing strap (just in case). But then again your actually working with an un covered mother board.

Not a covered and earthed ECU and all other electrical components in the car.

Ps. I'm not sure how you lost the clips. I've had those vents out 2 or 3 times

[TM7GTR]

Christ I've been up too long today.

Read the title as:

"Retrieving Dropped Pants From Tight Spaces "

[RosieR34]

Don't worry. I surely thought Richard would've came up with something similar. haha

[Sinista32]

Wedgie

[AnDreeZy]

FARKKKKKKKKKKKKKK Dropped another thing down a tight space,

This time, after ripping off tape to cover up the turbo inlet with masking tape,
i put the roll of tape on top of the engine, and rolled slightly, knocking down the inlet pipe allen key bolt
straight into the turbo outlet pipe....

the turbo spins freely and the bolts probably at the bottom of the compressor housing.... but i 100% saw it drop down the outlet pipe of the turbo.

anyone have ideas if a magnet will work? thinking of buying this one online?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Repair-Flexible-Slender-Metal-Magnet-Pick-up-Tool-/350656861594?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a4c7159a

will the magnet be strong enough? lesson definitely learnt - always tape the outlet pipes before taping the inlet pipes on the turbo >.<

[dontyellpl0x]

Oh jeez man. Worst nightmare right there. Good luck.