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Hi guys, I have one of these exhaust manifolds for an RB26 exhaust port stud pattern . It is definitely turbo low mount and wastegate high mount. Roy is right (AGAIN?). :headspin:

See the threaded bumps sticking out of one side of the pimary pipes? They are for mounting the heat shield. The heat shield goes on the top and the turbo goes on the opposite side to them (note the split flange/pulse). Thus the turbo goes on the bottom. :cooldance

The round holed flange, on the top (same as the heat shield) is the wastegate mount. Mine has a 45 degree elbow mounted there and the wastegate mounts to the elbow. It clears an R32 GTR bonnet easily. :)

I strongly suggest you make up a heat shield (stainless steel is good) to mount to the manifold or get it ceramic coated inside and out. Ditto the wastegate pipes, wrap or ceramic coat. :)

These manifolds work very well, they have increased secondary pipe ID where the primary pipes join. Plus they keep the rear 3 cylinders separated from the front 3 until the turbine. If you have a split pulse turbo they work even better. :wassup:

Hope that helps

Darren, Get a custom 45degree elbow made when they do the mods to the dump pipe.

SK, getting in to those Smiley faces there. :)

Being the exhaust manifold is designed for the RB20 will the stocker RB20 exhaust manifold shield bolt up? May be close..

Cheers Sk :) May get back to you on how to rig up the heatshield. Or can u buy it from HKS?

 

Where did u get the 45deg elbow from incase i have probs fitting the wastegate??

The 45 degree elbow came with the manifold, but it is easy to make, any exhaust shop could do it. You can buy the wastegate flanges from any turbo shop already plasma cut, then the exhaust shop simply joins (welds) them up with a 45 degree mandrel bend. You use a HKS flange (pattern) for the manifold and you need to decide what wastegate you want, so you can get the right flange for it.

The heatshield is pretty much just a flat sheet of stainless steel with holes in it to line up with the threaded bumps.

Hope that helps

INASNT...are you running a high mount low mount as well. :)

Only because a manifold is cast doesnt mean its no good. Typically cast manifolds are superior to tubular, with the exception of the weight. A well designed cast manifold just like awell designed tubular manifold will work well, alternatively bad design is a bad design irrespective of casting or tubular

INASNT...are you running a high mount low mount as well. :)

Only because a manifold is cast doesnt mean its no good. Typically cast manifolds are superior to tubular, with the exception of the weight. A well designed cast manifold just like awell designed tubular manifold will work well, alternatively bad design is a bad design irrespective of casting or tubular

Roy is it true as well that due to it being cast, it retains in the heat from the exhaust well, helpling spool the turbo? It was mentioned to me that a tubular requires a few runs on the dyno to get a consistent reading ( to build the heat up) to tune....sound right??

Guest INASNT
INASNT...are you running a high mount low mount as well. :)  

Only because a manifold is cast doesnt mean its no good. Typically cast manifolds are superior to tubular, with the exception of the weight.  A well designed cast manifold just like  awell designed tubular manifold will work well, alternatively bad design is a bad design irrespective of casting or tubular

I am running a custom made steam pipe high mount which is wrapped in that heat insulation.

Roy is it true as well that due to it being cast, it retains in the heat from the exhaust well, helpling spool the turbo? It was mentioned to me that a tubular requires a few runs on the dyno to get a consistent reading ( to build the heat up) to tune....sound right??

My thinking is you dont want the exhaust to retain any heat (is gas transfers heat to manifold), you want all the heat (ie energy) to hit the exhaust wheel (turbine).

You want all the temp to stay in the exhaust gases. What he may have meant is that the cast manifold will safely operate at a higher temp without warping, cracking etc etc, and doesnt require bracing like a tubular manfifold.

I dont know if a cold manifold will give measurable power differences to a hot manifold, i think by the time the engines warm the manifold will be at its basic temperature...of course climbing when on boost doing repeated dyno pulls

It will handle high temperatures alot better, and with ceramic coating being so cheap, and doubling as a great means of protecting from corrosion then if i could get a well designed cast manifold, then i would quite happily use it.

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